Van Cleef & Arpels
Gem set and diamond brooch, 'Lion Ebouriffé', 1970s
Gem set and diamond brooch, 'Lion Ebouriffé', Van Cleef & Arpels, 1970s
In the form of a lion, the eyes set with circular-cut emeralds, the muzzle with circular-cut diamonds and the nose applied with black enamel, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French assay mark for gold and maker's mark.
Signed VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, numbered 109810, French maker's mark, French assay marks and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. Emeralds with typical inclusions. Diamonds bright and lively. Black enamel with scratches and chips. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 22 grams.
Please note: Condition 16 of the Conditions of Business for Buyers (Online Only) is not applicable to this lot.
In the early 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels started introducing humorous, cartoon-like animal brooches with the intention of creating more accessible jewellery destined for a larger clientele. Sold at 'La Boutique' that was opened at 22 Place Vendôme in 1954, the brooches rapidly became a success, even entering famous jewellery collections, such as those of Princess Grace of Monaco and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
Cf.: Sara D. Coffin et al., Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, 2011, pg. 272 for a similar 'Lion ébouriffé'.