An Ottoman silk velvet and metal thread panel with stylised carnations, probably Bursa, Turkey, 17th century

The carnation (karanfil) was one of the most beloved floral motifs of the Ottomans and by the end of the sixteenth century it had developed into the serrated fan-shaped carnation palmette motif known as the 'fan' pattern, or yelpazeli as we see here. With a limited number of ornaments and a restricted range of colour the Ottoman textile designers were able to achieve impressive versatility using barely perceptible changes and by constantly modifying composition and using alternative combinations of motifs. They were able to ensure that within the considerable number of silks with offset rows of carnations that are extant, there are very few identical examples. Carnations have five, seven or even nine petals, they may have variations of floral sprays within each petal or none; the root, leaf and secondary palmette motifs have minute permutations and subtle changes. Although crimson velvet is the dominant colour, green, blue, ivory and yellow detailing can be used along with endless variations within the placement and usage of gilt and silver metal thread.