A jewelled and embroidered turquoise coverlet, India, circa 20th century

This coverlet, which is embellished with metal threads and semi-precious stones, is characteristic of zari zardovi weaving. This type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery reached India from central Asia in the twelfth century. While zari zardovi materials have now been replaced by lower priced imitations, the opulence of this coverlet is reminiscent of the sumptuous craft of ancient times. Under Mughal courtly patronage, zardovi flourished in the seventeenth century and floral patterns such as those adorning the borders of this coverlet are characteristic of their love for stylised plant motifs.