GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
1

GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER

Estimate: 600,000 - 800,000 USD
1

GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER

Estimate: 600,000 - 800,000 USD
Lot sold:1,340,000USD
(12 bids, reserve met)

Description

Property from a Distinguished American Collection

GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER


Designed as meandering vines, set with old European and single-cut diamonds, featuring carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires, accented by emerald beads, cabochon sapphires and emeralds, highlighted with calibré-cut onyx and black enamel, length 7 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 1604; circa 1930.

Condition Report

In good condition, with light wear and scratching to the platinum mounting, commensurate with age. The carved rubies range from medium pinkish red to medium deep purplish red; the sapphires from medium light to deep blue; and the emeralds from light green to medium deep bluish green. As typical for the type, the carved colored stones display varying degrees of transparency and color-zoning; moderately to heavily included with surface-reaching inclusions. The cabochon sapphires are medium blue and translucent. The onyx in overall good condition. The enamel with areas of loss, noticeable under close inspection. The diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 8.00 carats are approximately F-I color, VS-SI clarity. The bracelet opens by means of lifting the tab-form clasp from the front, using the crescent-form thumb piece. Width of band approximately 15/16 inch. Highly articulated and flexible.


The lot is sold in the condition it is in at the time of sale. The online condition report is provided to assist you with assessing the condition of the lot and is for guidance purposes only. The images of the lot also form part of the online condition report for the lot provided by Sotheby's. Any reference to condition in the online condition report does not amount to a full description of condition. The online condition report may make reference to particular imperfections of the lot but you should note that the lot may have other faults not expressly referred to in the online condition report of the lot or shown in the online images of the lot. The online condition report may not refer to all faults, restoration, alteration or adaptation because Sotheby's is not a professional conservator or restorer but rather the online condition report is a statement of subjective, qualified opinion genuinely held by Sotheby's (for example, information regarding colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's). Please also note that we do not guarantee, and are not responsible for, any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the lot. In addition, certain images of the lot provided online may not accurately reflect the actual condition of the lot (for example, the online images may represent colours and shades which are different to the lot's actual colour and shades). For these reasons, the online condition report is not an alternative to taking your own professional advice regarding the condition of the lot. Prospective buyers should also refer to the relevant section the Buying at Auction guide which includes important notices concerning the type of property in this sale. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS ONLINE CONDITION REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS (ONLINE ONLY).

Literature

For a bracelet of similar design, see Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary (1984 edition), Hans Nadelhoffer, color plate 44.

Catalogue Note

"Never copy, only create." This mission statement, embraced by brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques, yielded jewels of extraordinary originality and beauty, propelling Cartier to never-before-seen levels of global success in the early twentieth century. During this period, the firm was well-known for taking inspiration from the "exotic," but nowhere was this more masterfully expressed than in their tutti frutti jewels.


Cartier's first foray into the style was a necklace for Queen Alexandra who, as the wife of King Edward VII and by extension Empress Consort of India, commissioned a piece to complement three Indian-style dresses. Ten years later, in 1911, Jacques ventured to India where he amassed a vast collection of carved colored stones which he employed in a further refinement of the style, taking advantage of recent advancements in the manipulation of platinum. After being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, tutti frutti jewels rapidly gained popularity among the most fashionable and discerning collectors of the day, including Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes. 


Cartier produced a variety of tutti frutti jewels and objects, both for stock and special-order, with bracelets being the most sought-after form. All pieces share the hallmark of Mughal-cut colored stones, but each piece is unique, a variation on a captivating theme. The present lot is distinguished by the vibrancy of its gemstones-with rubies predominating-and by the lines of black enamel, placed intermittently along the trim of various elements. The enamelwork is applied to just one side-a particularly clever flourish-echoing the organic asymmetry of the foliate elements. The bracelet returns to a more traditional Art Deco aesthetic with its pavé-set diamond clasp, highlighted by onyx triangles and chevron-shaped closures. The overall design, and execution, is unmistakably Cartier.


Sotheby's is honored to present this iconic jewel, created almost a century ago, via a thoroughly modern platform. Never copy, only innovate.

GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
GEM-SET, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
Lot Closed