A PAIR OF ROMAN GOLD AND CARNELIAN INTAGLIO EARRINGS, CIRCA 3RD CENTURY A.D

Burton Y. Berry (1905-1985), Zurich

Numismatic Art and Ancient Coins, Zurich, 1986

Christie’s, New York, Ancient Jewelry: Wearable Art, November 29th-December 6th, 2018, no. 54, illus.

Cameo-set earrings were a sought-after adornment for well-to-do women in Rome’s Eastern Empire. What is special about this pair is the use of deep red carnelian for the cameos rather than the far more usual banded onyx. Another refinement is the way in which mirror-images have been used for the cameos, to retain the symmetry of the earrings, in this case a female bust, perhaps intended as an Imperial portrait. The cameos are bordered by a band of undulating gold strip, characteristic of Roman times and known as ‘wavy ribbon’. The earrings were attached to the ear by means of simple wire hooks, one of which is missing its end, the other, perhaps broken off in antiquity, has been replaced in recent times with a modern piece of gold wire made in the ancient manner.