PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENÈVE [百達翡麗，日內瓦] | AN EXTREMELY FINE AND RARE PINK GOLD OPEN-FACED KEYLESS LEVER WORLD TIME WATCH WITH CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL MAP OF NORTH AMERICA 1948, REF. 605 HU, MOVEMENT NO. 930.864, CASE NO. 654.949 [605HU型號極罕有粉紅金世界時間懷錶飾掐絲琺瑯彩繪北美洲地圖，1948年製，機芯編號930.864，錶殼編號654.949]
PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENÈVE
AN EXTREMELY FINE AND RARE PINK GOLD OPEN-FACED KEYLESS LEVER WORLD TIME WATCH WITH CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL MAP OF NORTH AMERICA
1948, REF. 605 HU, MOVEMENT NO. 930.864, CASE NO. 654.949
• Movement: cal.17-170 HU, damascened movement, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance, precision swan-neck regulation, signed and numbered Patek, Philippe & Co., 930864
• Dial: cloisonné enamel dial centre depicting a map of North America with a palm tree to the lower left and a ship to the right, applied pink gold Roman and dot hour indexes, surrounded by a two-tone revolving 24-hour ring divided into day and night hours, outermost satin finished revolving ring divided into 24-hours and marked with 41 world locations, signed Patek Philippe, Genève
• Case: 18ct pink gold, revolving polished chamfered bezel with finely milled edge, rounded case sides, snap-on back with broad chamfered polished rim and satin finished flat centre, polished bow, case back signed and numbered Patek, Philippe & Co., Genève, 654.949
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Movement: running and appears to be in good aesthetic condition with clean screw heads and plates. The revolving 24-hour ring working in tandem with the hand setting.
Case: retains good definition to angles and edges, has been lightly refreshed.
Dial: in very good condition, vibrant enamel.
The lot is sold in the condition it is in at the time of sale. The online condition report is provided to assist you with assessing the condition of the lot and is for guidance purposes only. The images of the lot also form part of the online condition report for the lot provided by Sotheby's. Any reference to condition in the online condition report does not amount to a full description of condition. The online condition report may make reference to particular imperfections of the lot but you should note that the lot may have other faults not expressly referred to in the online condition report of the lot or shown in the online images of the lot (for example, the online condition report may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome). Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. The online condition report may not refer to all faults, restoration, alteration or adaptation because Sotheby's is not a professional conservator or restorer but rather the online condition report is a statement of subjective, qualified opinion genuinely held by Sotheby's (for example, information regarding colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's). Please also note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and wrist bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. In addition, certain images of the lot provided online may not accurately reflect the actual condition of the lot (for example, the online images may represent colours and shades which are different to the lot's actual colour and shades). For these reasons, the online condition report is not an alternative to taking your own professional advice regarding the condition of the lot. Prospective buyers should also refer to the Buying at Auction guide which includes important notices concerning the type of property in this sale. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species. Please be advised that wristbands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS ONLINE CONDITION REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS (ONLINE ONLY).
The Heures Universelles watches are among the most coveted of all Patek Philippe’s vintage production, and examples form the centrepiece of some of the world’s most important watch collections. Reference 605 was one of the earliest models to incorporate the ingenious world time system developed by the famed watchmaker Louis Cottier; production began in 1937 and continued for approximately thirty years, during which time less than one hundred examples were made. Research suggests that three-quarters of the Ref. 605 watches made were delivered in yellow gold cases, with just one quarter in pink gold. The model was initially produced with plain metal satin finished centres in tones of champagne, pink or silver. However, from the late 1940s, Patek Philippe began to commission a small series of richly coloured cloisonné enamel dials. The cloisonné dials destined for the world time models predominantly featured ‘maps.’ These ‘maps’ were stylised views of the continents and versions included renditions of the Americas, either the North alone or North and South together, as well as larger world views such as Europe shown together with Africa and Asia or even an entire world view. Cloisonné enamel dials have long been favoured by collectors for their distinctive designs and vibrant colours which, with their indelible finish, remain undimmed by the passing years. The allure of the cloisonné dial is further heightened by the fact that each is unique – being hand painted, subtle variations are inevitably made both in tonal colouration as well as by the inclusion and placement of details and motifs.
The Heures Universelles function in Ref. 605 is operated via the bezel, a mechanism shared by this and the wristwatch Ref. 1415. To set the watch up, the user simply rotates the bezel so that their current location is displayed at the twelve o’clock position, and they then advance the hands to the correct local time. The recessed 24-hour ring is geared to turn automatically as time advances, and will therefore indicate the correct time in all zones around the world. Since the case, dial and movement are all integral to the technical function of the watch, Louis Cottier supervised the production of each element. It is interesting to note that the present example, like many of Cottier's inventions, lists London and Paris on the same time zone, Greenwich Mean Time. On 15 June 1940, Paris converted to Central European time due to the war. For many years it was thought that Paris would eventually revert back to GMT, and there are Patek Philippe Heures Universelles watches and wristwatches from as late as the 1970s which still list Paris and London on the same time zone.
Louis Cottier (1894-1966) was born in Carouge and attended the Horological School of Geneva before going to work for his father and horological mentor Emmanuel Cottier (1858-1930). Like his father, Louis was a talented mechanical genius and went on to develop numerous patents that changed the face of watchmaking. Reacting to the realities of the Great Depression, Cottier saw a niche in high-end watchmaking and focused his talents on the development of complicated watches for Patek Philippe, Agassiz, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin. Foremost among these discoveries was his development of the world time mechanism in the 1930s. This invention would inspire some of the most iconic Patek Philippe complications.