View full screen - View 1 of Lot 90. Harry Winston [海瑞溫斯頓] | Ruby and Diamond Bracelet [紅寶石配鑽石手鏈].
90

Harry Winston [海瑞溫斯頓] | Ruby and Diamond Bracelet [紅寶石配鑽石手鏈]

Estimate:

175,000 to - 275,000 USD

Extraordinary Jewels from the Collection of Cecile Zilkha [塞西爾・齊爾卡珠寶珍藏]

Harry Winston [海瑞溫斯頓] | Ruby and Diamond Bracelet [紅寶石配鑽石手鏈]

Harry Winston [海瑞溫斯頓] | Ruby and Diamond Bracelet [紅寶石配鑽石手鏈]

Estimate:

175,000 to - 275,000 USD

Lot sold:

441,000

USD

Extraordinary Jewels from the Collection of Cecile Zilkha

[塞西爾・齊爾卡珠寶珍藏]


Harry Winston

Ruby and Diamond Bracelet

[海瑞溫斯頓]

 [紅寶石配鑽石手鏈]


Of intertwined design, the graduated rows set with marquise-shaped and round diamonds, accented by oval-shaped and round rubies, length 7 inches, with maker's mark for Jacques Timey, numbered 5600; dated 1965.

In good condition, with light wear to the mounting. Stamped PT950 and OR for platinum and 18 karat (white) gold. The rubies stated to weigh a total of approximately 57.55 carats are medium slightly purplish red color, slightly to moderately included, some examples with surface abrasions and chips to the girdle, only visible upon close inspection. The diamonds stated to weigh a total of approximately 37.00 carats are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. Width of band at widest point approximately 1¼ inches. Well made and nicely flexible. Fitted with safety closure. Accompanied by a copy of an Insurance appraisal from Harry Winston, dated June 14, 1997. Accompanied by an authenticity letter from Harry Winston. Accompanied by AGL report no. 1106185 dated January 22, 2020 stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.


In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For a bracelet of similar design, see Harry Winston: The Ultimate Jeweler by Laurence Krashes, page 154-155.

Accompanied by an authenticity letter from Harry Winston dated March 5, 2020.


Accompanied by AGL report no. 1106185 dated January 22, 2020 stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.


Born in Goa in 1917, Ambaji Shinde, the son of a bangle maker, began his journey into the world of design when he attended the JJ School of Arts in Mumbai. He began working for Narotthamdas Jhaveri, and the firm soon flourished to become the official court jewelers to some of the most prominent rulers including the Maharajas of Baroda, Porbandar and Dhar, as well as the Nizam of Hyderabad, once the wealthiest man in the world. When India gained independence in 1947, the age of Maharajas abruptly came to an end. As a result, many pieces of important jewels accumulated during their rule were dismantled, the gems dispersed, hidden, sold and reimagined.


Shinde was hired by Harry Winston in 1962 and it was during the four decades he spent there as the principal designer that he developed and perfected his gemstone-driven style, transforming high jewelry into fine art. Often referred to as the “jewel behind the jewel” at the firm, Shinde brought a new dimension and sensibility to Winston’s designs with his expert understanding of how stones could be assembled. In the course of his career, Shinde’s designs adorned countless Hollywood stars and society ladies including Liz Taylor, Sophia Loren, Halle Berry, Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna.


The present bracelet is a superb example of Shinde’s timeless style, illustrating his knowledge of stone-cutting and his exceptional sense of balancing proportion and scale. The way the graduated rubies are off-set against the rows of diamonds causes the gems to appear to dance and float, possessing a remarkably lithe flexibility, with only the slightest amount of the mounting visible.


Despite his remarkable reputation amongst the jewelry world, Shinde’s talents remain largely unknown outside the industry. Lot 90 presents an opportunity for today’s collectors and connoisseurs to acquire a wearable masterpiece and appreciate Shinde’s legacy.