View full screen - View 1 of Lot 45. 'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER, REF 6200 STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCH WITH 'EXPLORER' DIAL AND BRACELET CIRCA 1955 [勞力士6200型號「'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER」精鋼鍊帶腕錶備EXPLORER錶盤,年份約1955].
45

Rolex

'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER, REF 6200 STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCH WITH 'EXPLORER' DIAL AND BRACELET CIRCA 1955 [勞力士6200型號「'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER」精鋼鍊帶腕錶備EXPLORER錶盤,年份約1955]

VAT applies to hammer price and buyer's premium

Estimate:

100,000

to
- 200,000 CHF

Rolex

Rolex

'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER, REF 6200 STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCH WITH 'EXPLORER' DIAL AND BRACELET CIRCA 1955 [勞力士6200型號「'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER」精鋼鍊帶腕錶備EXPLORER錶盤,年份約1955]

'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER, REF 6200 STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCH WITH 'EXPLORER' DIAL AND BRACELET CIRCA 1955 [勞力士6200型號「'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER」精鋼鍊帶腕錶備EXPLORER錶盤,年份約1955]

Estimate:

100,000

to
- 200,000 CHF

Lot sold:

126,000

CHF

Rolex


'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER, REF 6200

STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCH WITH 'EXPLORER' DIAL AND BRACELET

CIRCA 1955

[勞力士6200型號「'BIG CROWN' SUBMARINER」精鋼鍊帶腕錶備EXPLORER錶盤,年份約1955]


Dial: black, 'Explorer'

Calibre: cal. A296 automatic, 17 jewels

Movementnumber: 10'377

Case: stainless steel, screw-down back

Casenumber: 32'207

Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster rivet bracelet and folding clasp

Dimensions: 37 mm, bracelet circumference approx. 210 mm

Signed: case, dial and movement

Accessories: none

MVT: is running at the time of cataloguing.

CASE: in honest condition with strong proportions and some sharpness remaining to the edges. There are noticeable dings and scratches throughout as the watch has been used as a 'tool' watch over time. The bezel and crystal equally with some nicks and scratches throughout. The bracelet with heavy warping and stretching, clasp stamped '2-55' and endlinks stamped '65'.

DIAL: in honest condition with noticeable wear and aging. There is a rather attractive patina spotted all over the dial, giving the watch a unique character. The luminous material has turned very dark, almost black in some instances, but shows a fairly even reaction under UV light, fading right after exposure. The hands with some tarnish and loss to the luminous material.


Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of time and may need a service at the buyer's expense. Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement and we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. You are advised that watch straps or bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator or crocodile) are not sold with the watch and we reserve the right to remove these straps or bands prior to shipping. Furthermore, the watch may not come with its original manufacturers strap or band. Prospective bidders should review the Conditions of Business, Authenticity Guarantee, the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and any Important Notice in the sale catalogue.


"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."


**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping."

The Submariner was introduced at the Basel Fair in 1954, with three different references. While the references 6204 and 6205 were only water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, the more robust reference 6200, such as the present example, was designed for professional divers and was able to withstand depths of up to 200 meters. In order to do so it was equipped with a large 8 mm crown with 'Brevet' written on it, hence the nickname 'big crown.' While later references 6538 and 5510 also took on the nickname 'big crown, as they were equally equipped with an 8 mm crown, the 6200 remains the first and original one, and is therefore the most sought-after reference and even called the 'King Sub' by collectors. The reference 6200 can further be divided into two variations. One has the small logo on top without the 'Submariner' at six o'clock, while the other has the large logo on top and the 'Submariner' written at six o'clock, such as visible on the present lot.  


With this reference, Rolex also introduced the 'Explorer' dial to the Submariner line, so-called because of the 3-6-9 hour markers that connect it to that other famous Rolex model. The rather simple 'Explorer' dial layout with only the 'Submariner' text and without a chronometer certification or depth rating makes this watch extremely attractive and such small variations are exactly what collectors are looking for. The present lot is further offered in honest condition, still retaining nice proportions, while having noticeably served as a 'tool' watch in the daily live of its owner. It is further fitted with a matching riveted Oyster bracelet stamped '2-55' on the folding clasp.