Suzanne Belperron for René Boivin

The tapered cuff bracelet of melon-slice design, pavé set at the front with old European- and single-cut diamonds.

·        Internal circumference 6 inches at the edge and 7 inches in the center

·        Maker’s mark for René Boivin

·        Platinum

·        Gross weight approximately 44 dwts

·        Circa 1930

·        Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from René Boivin dated January 5, 2023 stating that the diamond ‘tranche’ bracelet is René Boivin, circa 1930, from a design by Suzanne Belperron

·        Accompanied by a fitted presentation box

René Boivin: Jeweler by Françoise Cailles, p. 174

An iconic design, the Tranche, or melon-slice, cuff was inspired by a melon Jeanne Boivin was eating. In 1932, Suzanne Belperron, who worked for Boivin from 1919 to 1932, translated Boivin’s idea into a jewel with her early design drawings creating a similar, thinner, variation on this bracelet. The design was instantly appreciated and a drawing of the bracelet appeared in Vogue in 1933. The Tranche was produced in a variety of materials, in each bracelet, the shape of the cuff with its round form and tapered sides represents a slice. In this bracelet, the top is set with diamonds of various sizes creating a surface reminiscent of the texture of the rind. It is unusual to see the Tranche in completely precious materials where subtle, but important, details show the artistry of the design. Here, the diamonds graduate in size, smaller at the edges and larger as they move toward the center of the cuff, creating a play of shadow and depth in the all-white piece. With the use of only diamonds and platinum, this cuff focuses on the brilliance and fire created by the array of diamonds set within a smooth platinum surface.