TWO MUGHAL BROCADE JAMA, NORTH INDIA, PROBABLY 18TH CENTURY |

the first in gilt metal thread brocade with an overall design of Persian style rose bushes, original red and gold striped lining with sky blue silk binding, small tear on right shoulder and repaired split in right hand rear panel of skirt, brocade otherwise in very good condition; the second in ivory silk satin with an overall pattern of small brocade ‘tiger stripes’ in gilt metal thread and crimson silk, original red and gold striped lining and red silk binding, small hole in lining, brocade generally in very good condition; together with a red herringbone twill silk sash with gilt metal thread brocaded ends (3)

Possibly Henry Vansittart (1732–1770) when Governor of Bengal from 1759 to 1764 or his brother;
George Vansittart (1745-1825) when in Bengal from 1761 to 1776;
thence by descent

The jama with flowers with a vertical tear with associated consolidation on the lower right side, another tear on the right hand side shoulder, some stitches are loose, wear and discolouration affecting minor areas, for example the elbows and the back, consistent with its age and use, the interior lining with some light staining and discolouration and some minor tears; the jama with cloud bands in very good condition with minor stains particularly to the lower edge, some discolouration and signs of use consistent with its age, the interior lining with minor stains and creases throughout; the sash with minor stains but in overall in very good condition, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The jama was part of the typical Mughal court costume for men and refers to a full-skirted coat with a crossover bodice tied under the arm with fabric cords. The Emperor Akbar is reputed to have introduced the convention of Muslims tying their coats under their right arm and Hindus tying theirs under the left. The style and design of jama evolved with time, but despite small changes in its cut or length, it remained one of the most iconic pieces of clothing of the Mughal period (for additional information on the jamas of Mughal India and their evolution please refer to the article published by Toolika Gupta on the website: https://www.sahapedia.org/the-jamas-of-mughal-india). These two metal thread brocade tunics are a rare survival of the Mughal silk atelier of the eighteenth century; each of them is decorated with gilt metal thread interwoven with coloured silk. The Persian style rose bushes on the first jama are a decorative motif widely found in Mughal textiles, from carpets to shawls and velvets (similar brocade with this pattern are now in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, inv.no.IS.788-1883 and inv.no.IS.9625&A and inv.no.IS.132-1883). More unusual is the pattern on the second jama, where the ivory silk satin is decorated with small brocade ‘tiger stripes’, a motif originally from China, which travelled throughout all Asia and was largely used especially by the Ottoman.