Lot 149
  • 149


100,000 - 300,000 USD
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The flexible openwork foliate band set with carved sapphires, rubies and emeralds, accented by round and triangle-shaped sapphire cabochons, further set with onyx beads, highlighted by old European and single-cut diamonds, applied with black enamel, length 6¾ inches; circa 1930, four small diamonds and one onyx bead missing.


For bracelets of similar design, see Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary (1984 edition), Hans Nadelhoffer, color plates 44 and 46.


In good condition, with light wear and scratching to the platinum mounting, commensurate with age. The carved rubies range from medium pinkish red to medium deep purplish red; the sapphires from medium light to deep blue; and the emeralds from light green to medium deep bluish green. As typical for the type, the carved colored stones display varying degrees of transparency and color-zoning; moderately to heavily included with surface-reaching inclusions. The cabochon sapphires are medium blue and translucent; the onyx present minor to moderate chipping around the bead holes upon close inspection; and the diamonds are approximately F-I color, VS-SI clarity. As noted in the catalogue, 4 diamonds and 1 onyx bead are no longer present. The bracelet opens by means of lifting the tab-form clasp from the front, using the crescent-form thumbpiece. Width of band approximately 15/16 inch.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Epitomizing the marriage of Eastern exoticism to Art Deco design, tutti frutti jewels by Cartier are held up as masterpieces of the jeweler’s art. After first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, the style rapidly gained popularity among the most fashionable women and discerning jewelry collectors of the day, including Mrs. W.K. Vanderbilt, Daisy Fellowes and Mrs. Cole Porter.Though unsigned, the bracelet offered here is notable for its preponderance of telltale elements: carved colored stones of varying shades and qualities (in-keeping with the Moghul style); scrolling diamond vines highlighted by drill-set onyx beads; enameled saw tooth patterns applied at the terminals; and a foldover tab clasp. In style and size, it is strikingly similar to the tutti frutti bracelet from the Evelyn H. Lauder Collection sold by Sotheby’s New York in 2014 and featured in Hans Nadelhoffer’s seminal book, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary. Unlike the Lauder bracelet, which had only emeralds and rubies, here we find the addition of sapphires, thereby endowing the piece with all the “fruits,” or, quite literally, tutti frutti. In this regard, the bracelet more closely resembles two examples made for Mrs. Cole Porter between 1925 and 1929, also illustrated in Nadelhoffer’s book. The association with Mrs. Porter continues, for this piece is known to have been in the collection of Linda Lee Colgate, the niece and namesake of Mrs. Porter, née Linda Lee. The bracelet, along with a complementary double-clip brooch (lot 150) descended through the family, first as a wedding gift and, more recently, as an inheritance.

Sotheby’s has had the pleasure of offering several jewels from the collection of Mrs. Cole Porter, and we are honored to present this quintessential tutti frutti jewel from a member of her extended family.