A UNIQUE RUBY AND DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, CARTIER

Of floral design, centring upon a cluster of ruby beads with collet-set single-cut diamond finials, to the petals embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds and buff-top rubies, cluster centre detachable and can be worn as a clip brooch, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay marks, circa 1950.

Cluster centre signed Cartier, numbered 10160; petals signed Cartier, with indistinct numbered 4110100; both with French import assay marks for metal below minimum French fineness standard. Metal tested as white, yellow and pink gold. Ruby beads estimated to weigh approximately 20.00 - 25.00 carats in total, of medium to medium dark tone, pinkish to purplish red colour and medium to medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions and some are surface reaching, some chips, nicks and cavities; buff-top rubies of medium purplish pink colour and medium strong saturation, with some typical inclusions and a few are surface reaching, some nicks and a few minor chips; all examined under 10x magnification. Diamonds are bright and lively. Signs of minor wear to the metal commensurate with age. Overall in very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Cartier Blooms Botanical motifs in jewelry have shown waves of reinvention throughout history. Defying boundaries and experimenting with ways mimicking patterns in nature alluding to floral designs, Cartier has stylized flowers in phases of bloom through the decades, capturing the softness and life of the flower, with the ageless beauty of precious gems and stones. Drawing inspiration from nature has been a constant theme for the Maison since its inception, with naturalistic motifs in designs apparent as early as the late 19^th century.

Always seeking to craft pieces that go beyond expectations, Cartier's interpretations on floral jewels evolved throughout the ages. In 1931, Cartier created a floral brooch also using ruby beads as the flowerhead while decorating the petals as portrait diamonds – a special order for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. In 1949, by another special order, ruby beads were studded with collet-set diamonds as embellishments to a palm tree motif necklace.  These reimagined botanical motifs of flora and fauna are colourful and whimsical – a testament to Cartier being able to elevate the gems and metals to their fullest potential.

This ruby and diamond brooch is a beautiful example from the late 1940s to the early 1950s. The rich ruby beads decorate the flowerhead with collet-set diamonds, brought to life by the polished walls of its reflective white gold petals. Playing with the gift of light, these blooming petals has the effect of a dramatic illusion at every angle. Lot 1694 bears the charm of the Cartier imagination of the time, taking ordinary flowers and enhancing them into timeless jewels.