1717

Details & Cataloguing

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An Important Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Bangle, 'Panthère', Cartier
Designed as a pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond panther with articulated paws and rotating head, decorated with cabochon onyx spots, nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes, the tail encircling a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 10.01 carats, mounted in platinum, inner circumference approximately 150mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker's marks, Swiss assay marks.
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Catalogue Note

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 19021001, dated 11 February 2019, stating that the ruby is of Mozambican origin, with no indications of heating.

Also accompanied by a gemmological report.

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MESMERISING MOZAMBIQUE

Mozambique is located in South Eastern Africa and has always been an important source of coloured stones but only in recent years have rubies been discovered. Mozambique rubies are mined in the Msaqizi area of the Niassa Province and Montepuez in the Cabo Delgado Province of Mozambique, bordering the famous gem-rich Mozambique Belt running North – South through East Africa.

Recognized for the brilliant red hue and high transparency of rubies produced, Mozambique rubies have rapidly become one of the most coveted ruby red colours, and as a result, are one of the more valuable rubies sourced from African mines. In order to satisfy growing demand, within the last ten years, eighty percent of the global ruby output would originate from Mozambique.

The rich iron content in a Mozambique ruby shifts the colour away from purple towards a straight red, producing colours competitive to the prized pigeon blood red rubies of Burma. Though generally the presence of iron mutes the fiery fluorescence in a gemstone, the content is not as abundant as the iron found in Thai or Cambodian rubies; placing Mozambique rubies within the perfect equilibrium to produce the most desirable red hue.

The panther, symbolic of Cartier, was first inspired when Louis Cartier commissioned a painting, Woman With A Panther, by George Barbier in 1914. Booming alongside the panther craze of the 20th century, Cartier incorporated the panther’s distinct print into a bracelet wristwatch, which would become the first ever piece of the legendary ‘Panthère’ collection. Cartier ‘Panthère’ blossomed as a result of the love story and partnership between Louis Cartier and Jean Toussaint. In 1917, Cartier gifted Toussaint an onyx vanity case that featured the maison’s first full-body panther, paying homage to Toussaint’s nickname “La Panthère” esteemed for her elegance. Toussaint eventually became the artistic director of Cartier high Jewellery in 1933 incorporating the panther motif and adding a dynamic sense to their creations.

Notable collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton have each commissioned Cartier for their own exclusive ‘Panthère’ jewels. Lot 1717 is no different; the unique panther bangle was commissioned to enhance the beauty of the Mozambique ruby which centers the creation.

Mozambique rubies differ from Burmese rubies in their strength of colour. The majority of Mogok stones tend to improve in colour along with size, whereas Mozambique rubies are known to excel in the smaller sizes, with stones over ten carats tending to be darker. Lot 1717 showcases a Mozambique ruby over 10 carats that maintains an attractive, saturated red colour. Combined with the iconic ‘Panthère’ bangle mounting by Cartier, it is as striking and collectible as a jewel can be.

Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite

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Hong Kong