In the 1920s, Americans were eager to travel to Paris, romanticized as one of the most artistic centers of Europe that lead in fashion and jewellery. One of the most prominent draws to the city was the staging of Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes in 1925, which Art Deco takes its name from (short for Arts Décoratifs). It was at this historical event that Mauboussin won a Grand Prix for its modern styling - which was also when the maison had begun to establish itself in America through boutiques in New York and Florida at the height of its creativity. However Maubossin soon lost its representation in America due to the stock market crash that followed. This gave Trabert & Hoeffer, an American Jewellery firm which was famed in the 30s for their dazzling association with Hollywood film stars, a unique opportunity to partner with Mauboussin.
In 1936, Mauboussin would enter into collaboration with Trabert & Hoeffer, announcing the merger as the newly formed Trabert & Hoeffer – Mauboussin (THM) in America. For the next 17 years, THM created a myriad of extraordinary jewels, such as Lot 1684. This diamond double clip brooch is the quintessential Art Deco jewel, borne from the industrial aesthetic that was influenced by Cubism. These diamond clips were very much in vogue, used for a cape or a dress, or even as a lapel pin. The Trabert & Hoeffer – Mauboussin partnership came to an end in 1953 when the American firm grew distant from the Jewellery scene, diving into the real estate market instead. Now jewels that bear the dual label are a rarity, as they were produced exclusively during the 17 year timespan between 1936 – 1953. Lot 1684 would be a unique gem to a discerning jewellery collector – as a bejeweled slice of history.
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