Lot 270
  • 270

BREGUET ET FILS | 'SOUSCRIPTION' WATCH NO. 3660SILVER AND GOLD OPEN-FACED WATCH ORIGINALLY SOLD JANUARY 31, 1823

Estimate
15,000 - 25,000 CHF
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Description

  • Breguet et Fils
  • 'SOUSCRIPTION' WATCH NO. 3660SILVER AND GOLD OPEN-FACED WATCH ORIGINALLY SOLD JANUARY 31, 1823
Dial: white enamel, blued steel single hand, secret signature and number below 12, Arabic numerals and five minute divisions, signed beneath 6 Breguet et Fils Movement: gilt ruby cylinder, central going barrel, gilt three-arm balance with parachute suspension and compensation curbMovement number: 3660Case: engine-turned silver case 'á grains d'orge' with gold rims, case stamped JLJ for the case maker Jean-Louis Joly.Case number: 3'660'322Dimensions: 61.5 mmSigned: dial and movementAccessories: key

Condition

MVT: is running at the time of cataloguing. CASE: in fair condition with wear throughout. The engravings inside the back are still clearly visible. DIAL: in attractive condition with enamel intact. The secret signature underneath 12 o'clock is also intact and there are only some minor surface blemishes visible with the naked eye. There is a very small fracture on the edge in the glass, in between 6 and 7 o'clock. Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of time and may need a service at the buyer's expense. Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement and we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. You are advised that watch straps or bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator or crocodile) are not sold with the watch and we reserve the right to remove these straps or bands prior to shipping. Furthermore, the watch may not come with its original manufacturers strap or band. Prospective bidders should review the Conditions of Business, Authenticity Guarantee, the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and any Important Notice in the sale catalogue.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping."

Catalogue Note

According to the Archive of Breguet, this watch was originally sold on January 31st, 1823 to Mrs. Daniloff for the price of 611 francs.

Around 1794, during Abraham Louis Breguet’s exile in Switzerland, Breguet had the idea of creating watches for an affordable price using the same escapement as the more sophisticated watches for civil use, with a parachute in between the two pivots from the balance, and a bimetallic compensation curve on the racket. As stated in the advertisement notice, published on the occasion of its launch, the size of these watches was to be designed in such a way that all components were accessible and individually removable to ensure that their movement could be serviced anywhere, even by inexperienced watchmakers. To reduce costs, the dial was divided to make it easier to read the time to the nearest minute, using a single hand powered by a spring barrel placed at the center of the movement. Such watches, in Breguet’s eyes, had the advantage of being produced in small series. To finance the equipment used and due to the desire to focus on research, Breguet had the idea to market these watches by subscription, or Souscription in French. Subscribers would pay half the price that had been agreed at the time of the order, and the watches would then be delivered upon production by Breguet and full payment by the client. A production in series of 10 to 13 watches at a time was set up. Those in a silver case were sold for 600 francs, with the gold cases going for 800 francs. In order to prevent these watches of relatively simple design from being forged, Breguet invented a secret signature which was only visible in a raking light. The signature was created through the use of a pantograph, especially designed for this purpose. 

With special thanks to Mr Emmanuel Breguet for the archival information.