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Details & Cataloguing

Important Watches

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Geneva

Cartier
HELM YELLOW GOLD WRISTWATCH CIRCA 1950
Dial: silvered
Calibre: 7''' manual winding
Case: 18l yellow gold Helm case, back secured by 2 screws
Case number: 89561
Dimensions: 28 mm
Signed: dial signed Cartier, movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre
Accessories: none
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Catalogue Note

Cartier is a manufacture synonymous with elegance and craftsman ship, held in highest esteem for the ground-breaking case designs, the most well-known of course being the Tank. However, and what is more, a fact easy to overlook, Cartier have produced a plethora of designs throughout the course of their 172 year history.  While emphasis tends, now, to be on the dial, the 1950s was a time where many manufactures experimented with form, and Cartier was no exception. Indeed arguably some to most sought after pieces with a focus on case design were born in the mid-century and the present lot is certainly testament to this fact.

Nicknamed the ‘Helm’, the watch resembles a ship’s wheel with its distinctive spoked yellow gold case housing a comparatively minute movement and plain silvered dial.   Also, and to great effect, the crown is hidden behind the watch as opposed to its usual position at 3 o’clock. This small detail affords the watch great balance and forces the observer’s attention evermore on the watch’s Avant guard form.

Such watches tended to be made in very limited numbers, and therefore their appearance at auction is somewhat scarce. Furthermore, given the emphasis on shape and design the condition of the case is paramount. Thus, to find one in such well preserved condition, such as with the present lot is a rare treat for any collector of both these types of watches or even, items from this period.

Important Watches

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Geneva