CHATEAU D'YQUEM 1937 |

Château d'Yquem 1937 Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classéu. 5t/hs, slightly damp affected and scuffed labels, wartime glass, re- bottled in chateau in 1991, slightly worn capsules, 1 minor sign of old seepageThis was a dry, but not very hot year. 33 days of picking over 4 weeks without rain, beginning on 21 September and finishing on 6 November. Deep glowing amber. Nose of tangerines and spice. The nutmeg creeps up on you. A note of drying petals - pot pourri. Glorious crème brûlée on the palate. Tarry, Seville orange marmalade. Burnt, caramelised oranges. Creamier and creamier in the glass. On its 70th birthday, it had a very smoky nose, fig skins and pomegranates. Will 1986, with which it is sometimes compared, ever be as concentrated? Kumquats. A huge, mythical mouthful. Massive. Liquorice. Terrific, pure richness. Smoky fig skins in the oven at the end. Serena Sutcliffe, MW5 bts (sc)Estimates are per lot