ARCHAEOLOGICAL-REVIVAL GOLD AND ENAMEL 'MELOS' NECKLACE

The woven gold mesh band supporting a fringe of amphora, heart and rosette motifs, accented with granulated details, highlighted with blue and green enamel, length 15 inches; circa 1860.

Necklaces of similar design are illustrated in Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry ed. Susan Weber Soros and Stefanie Walker, page 210; and Castellani and Giuliano, Revivalist Jewellers of the 19^th Century, by Geoffrey C. Munn, pages 105-115, plates 115, 116, 119 and 126. Other examples of designs from the Greek Classical period that served as inspiration for many archaeological revival necklaces of the 19^th century are illustrated in Necklaces, From Antiquity to the Present, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, pages 12-13; for Classical revival examples by different makers, see pages 112-113.

In good condition, the woven mesh band slightly crimped in some areas, and 7 green enameled heart-shaped pendants missing, barely discernible and only noticeable upon close inspection. Mounting tests as 18 karat gold. The enamel in good condition, with a few very small areas of loss, noticeable only under close inspection. The S-shaped clasp later added.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

This necklace offered here is very similar to one made by Carlo Giuliano shortly after his arrival in London at a time when he was still very much influenced by his master Alessandro Castellani. It is a replica of an original Hellenistic necklace dating from 330-300 B.C. and discovered at Melos. The British Museum purchased the original from Castellani in 1872. The ‘Melos’ necklace was well known before it arrived at the museum and served as the prototype for several other versions of this design made by Revivalist jewelers including Castellani, Giuliano and Melillo.