545

Details & Cataloguing

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

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Spectacular gem set and diamond sautoir, Bulgari, 1969-1970
Supporting a pendant set with an emerald weighing 127.35 carats carved in the shape of a fruit, the links set with cabochon rubies, amethyst, citrines, topazes, turquoise and emeralds, enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 860mm, separates into four segments, may be worn as two bracelets and a necklace, bracelet lengths approximately 180mm, necklace lengths approximately 420mm or 520mm, signed Bulgari, fitted case stamped Bulgari.
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Accompanied by SSEF report no. 101616, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures.

Literature

Cf.: Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Bulgari, New York, 1996, pg. 93 for an illustration and the design of this sautoir.

Catalogue Note

The angular forms appearing on this sautoir are a characteristic of Bulgari's first designs in the 1970s. During these years, the major sources of inspiration of the Italian maker were based on Indian and Egyptian influences. In this case, the carved emerald pendant is somehow reminiscent of the Indian traditional boteh motif. The choice of cabochons rather than faceted stones for the sautoir is a feature of Indian derivation too, exploited by numerous French and American jewellers at this point in time. This sautoir is a perfect example that illustrates Bulgari's taste and style, using various colourful gemstones and diamonds in yellow gold.

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

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Geneva