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Details & Cataloguing

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

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Geneva

Enamel, coloured hardstone, lapis lazuli and diamond bracelet, circa 1925
Composed of three hinged rectangular aubergine-colour enamel plaques applied with variously coloured hardstone flowerhead motifs and jade leaves, highlighted with rose diamonds and further embellished with carved lapis lazuli, the mount chased in a floral and foliate pattern, length approximately 180mm, Austrian export mark for gold.
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Provenance

Sotheby's Geneva, Magnificent Jewels, 20 May 1992, Lot 231.

Literature

Cf.: C. Gere, The Art of The Jeweller, A Catalogue of The Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum, Vol. I, pg. 190, no 1178 and Vol. II, pg. 319, no 1178 and colour plate 63, for examples of carved hardstone jewellery by Ernst Paltscho.

Cf.: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, bracelet by Ernst Paltscho.

Catalogue Note

The beautifully carved flowers and leaves closely resemble the work of the Viennese jewellery house Paltscho. Founded in 1899 by Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929), the house is known in Austria as the "Jewelers of the Kings". Their most important customers include well-known Austro-Hungarian aristocrats and the King of Greece. Beginning of 1918 his son Erwin manages the company, he became known for his spectacular jewels set with colourful, beautifully observed flowers in carved hardstones, several examples of which are similar to those seen here.

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

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Geneva