Lot 315
  • 315

Patek Philippe

Estimate
200,000 - 250,000 CHF
bidding is closed

Description

  • Patek Philippe
  • AN EXCEPTIONAL AND RARE YELLOW GOLD CHRONOGRAPH WRISTWATCH WITH REGISTERS AND BLACK SECTOR DIAL FOR THE FRENCH MARKET REF 130 MVT 862124 CASE 618636 MADE IN 1938
  • yellow gold
  • diameter 34 mm
• cal. 13''' manual winding lever movement, 23 jewels, mono metallic balance • black dial, applied gold Arabic numerals and baton indexes, gold feuille hands, gold chronograph hands, subsidiary dials for constant seconds and 30-minute register, gilt inner minute track, outer track with 1/5 second divisions, silvered outermost tachometer scale • 18k yellow gold case, solid snap on case back • case, dial, and movement signed, the case stamped with French gold marks, and an oval retailer's stamp.  

Condition

The movement is in working condition at the time of cataloguing. The black lacquer dial is in wonderful original condition with some light tarnish and spotting which is more than consistent with the age. Scales are all intact. Light tarnishing to the applied numerals and indexes. Generally the dial has terrific character. Overall the dial is in very good condition. The case has been polished. There is a partial hallmark under the lug at 7 o'clock. There is a second hallmark underneath the case back at 11 o'clock. Overall this is a highly charismatic example with an extremely rare black lacquer dial. The watch has not been tested to determine the accuracy of its timekeeping. Please note that Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement and that a service may be required at the buyer's discretion.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping."

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the year of manufacture in 1938, and sale on March 17th, 1939. Sotheby’s is honoured to present this exceptional and extremely rare Patek Philippe reference 130, a momentous occasion in the vintage watch collecting world. This piece represents the first time in nearly a decade that a gold reference 130 featuring a black sector dial has been offered at auction and appears likely to be one of only two known to the public. In a market where exceptional unknowns are an increasing rarity, it is our great pleasure to offer this lot for what is believed to be the first time at auction. The present lot survives in spectacular condition. The complexity of the dial design and unusual method of dial printing makes this piece one of the most desirable examples in its category.

The prestige of the reference 130 is desirable in any rendition. The reference was originally introduced in 1934, inspired by a classic Calatrava, the iconic reference 96. The 130 remained in production for over 30 years. While tastes shifted dramatically over time, the desire for an elegant, understated wristwatch, combined with the utilitarian complication of a chronograph withstood the test of time, appealing to clients then as it does today.

The present lot was made for the French market, as demonstrated by its French import marks stamped on the case, and the FAB. SUISSE stamped both on the dial and the case interior. This designation is specific to watches exported to France, and is rarely seen. Furthermore, the inside of the case back is additionally struck with the retailer’s mark, which is now rubbed. However, it appears to be the mark for Guillermin, Patek Philippe’s exclusive Paris Agents during this period.

The stunning black sector dial itself was carefully crafted employing the method of galvanization, resulting in a luxuriously silky and matte texture. This extensive process furthermore creates a dial uniquely capable of retaining its original finish over decades, such that the dial today looks as it did when it was made in 1938. To achieve this effect, the dial plate would undergo several rounds of printing. In this instance, the first round would have included a fine gilt and silver base followed by an expertly applied layer of black lacquer, possibly through the method of serigraphy. This process results in the tracking and chapter rings being recessed below rather than raised above the black finish. The dial is further distinguished by the two tones of print on the dial: silver to the outer tracking and gilt to the central portions. When viewing the dial, the multidimensionality, tones of gold, silver and black, as well as the sector layout, all combine to create a mesmerizing effect. 

Two reference 130 models with black sector dials are illustrated in Huber M. & Banbery A., Patek Philippe Wristwatches, 1st Edition, 1988, p. 205, pl. 345 and 346. The serial numbers are not published in the aforementioned text, however, close and careful analysis of fig. 1 and the present lot suggest it is possibly one and the same. From the unique configuration of the sector dial, to the designation, FAB. SUISSE, we find the
dial unmistakably similar.