HARDSTONE, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, 1930S

Composed of curved bicoloured links applied with black, red and blue enamel, set with floral compositions of carved chalcedony and nephrite, accented with rose diamonds, length approximately 175mm, Austrian export and Czech import assay marks, fitted case.

Cf.: Melissa Gabardi, Art Deco Jewellery: 1920-1949, Suffolk, 1989, pg.123, for a similar brooch in the Claudio Zannettin Collection. 
Cf.: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, 2006, pg. 83 for an illustration of a bracelet with similar floral hardstone carvings by Ernst Paltscho.  

Clasp with Czech import mark. Side of bracelet with Austrian export assay mark for 14 carat gold and sponsor's mark TS. Chalcedony of red, orange, grey and light blue tone, translucent. Nephrite green, translucent, with typical colour mottling. Very minor losses to ends of petals on two flowers, and tip of one leaf. Enamel blue, green and black, in good condition. Areas of discolouration to metal reverse. Scratches to metal consistent with wear.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The distinctive style of this bracelet links it closely to the output of the Wiener Werkstätte, a community of Viennese artists whose output encompassed not only jewellery, but also architecture, textile design, painting, ceramics, sculpture and furniture. Formed in 1903 by the architect Josef Hoffmann and the artist Koloman Moser, the workshop lasted until 1932, and had a lasting influence on 20th century design, informing both the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements, as well as Cubism, and the works of Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele.
 
The delicately carved flowers and leaves closely resemble the work of the Austrian jewellers Paltscho. Founded by Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929) in 1899 in Vienna, the family firm was famous for the unrivalled quality and verisimilitude of their hardstone carvings, which found patronage among the Greek Royal House, and the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. Paltscho's son Erwin joined the firm in 1918, and continued the business after his father's death.

A closely related bracelet attributed to Paltscho was sold at Sotheby's New York, on 9th December 2010, lot 381.