Lot 228
  • 228

HARDSTONE, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, 1930S

Estimate
10,000 - 15,000 GBP
Sold
17,500 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • diamond, gold, nephrite, enamel, chalcedony
Composed of curved bicoloured links applied with black, red and blue enamel, set with floral compositions of carved chalcedony and nephrite, accented with rose diamonds, length approximately 175mm, Austrian export and Czech import assay marks, fitted case.

Literature

Cf.: Melissa Gabardi, Art Deco Jewellery: 1920-1949, Suffolk, 1989, pg.123, for a similar brooch in the Claudio Zannettin Collection. 
Cf.: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, 2006, pg. 83 for an illustration of a bracelet with similar floral hardstone carvings by Ernst Paltscho.  

Catalogue Note

The distinctive style of this bracelet links it closely to the output of the Wiener Werkstätte, a community of Viennese artists whose output encompassed not only jewellery, but also architecture, textile design, painting, ceramics, sculpture and furniture. Formed in 1903 by the architect Josef Hoffmann and the artist Koloman Moser, the workshop lasted until 1932, and had a lasting influence on 20th century design, informing both the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements, as well as Cubism, and the works of Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele.
 
The delicately carved flowers and leaves closely resemble the work of the Austrian jewellers Paltscho. Founded by Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929) in 1899 in Vienna, the family firm was famous for the unrivalled quality and verisimilitude of their hardstone carvings, which found patronage among the Greek Royal House, and the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. Paltscho's son Erwin joined the firm in 1918, and continued the business after his father's death.

A closely related bracelet attributed to Paltscho was sold at Sotheby's New York, on 9th December 2010, lot 381.
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