Lot 24
  • 24

Enamel and ruby necklace, mid 19th century

Estimate
60,000 - 80,000 GBP
bidding is closed

Description

  • gold, enamel, ruby
Modelled as a snake, the fully articulated body applied with black and white enamel, the eyes collet-set with circular-cut rubies, length approximately 675mm.

Condition

Minor chips and crazing to the enamel on belly, some on body, and around snake head. Rubies mid red with some surface scratches. Mounted in gold. Some links with small dents. Minor abrasion and scratches commensurate with age and wear. Gross weight approximately 150 grams. Overall condition commensurate with age and wear.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The serpent is one of the oldest and most widespread mythological symbols, and has been both venerated and feared since antiquity. Through the act of shedding its skin, it is symbolic of immortality and rebirth, while the image of the serpent biting its tail – known as the ouroboros – has become a symbol of cyclic renewal and resurrection, and has been widely used in the decorative arts.

Snake jewels came to particular prominence in the second quarter of the 19th century, when Queen Victoria herself wore a coiled snake bracelet for her first opening of Parliament in 1837, and later a snake ring set with emeralds, presented to her by Prince Albert as a symbol of their engagement in 1840.

The present three works are notable for their highly naturalistic articulation and exquisite enamelling, which they possibly owe to a number of specialised workshops based in Geneva, which became the centre of the painted enamel industry in the early 19th century.

Cf.: Geoffrey Munn, The Triumph of Love, Jewelry 1530-1930, Thames & Hudson Ltd. London, 1993, pg. 64, for a closely comparable example, attributed to the Geneva enamel workshops.