Lot 313
  • 313

Sapphire and Diamond Clip-Brooch, Verdura

25,000 - 35,000 USD
81,250 USD
bidding is closed


  • verdura
  • sapphire, diamond
Featuring an oval-shaped sapphire weighing 26.77 carats set between wings accented with round diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires, signed Verdura, with workshop mark. With signed box.

Catalogue Note

After working as a jewelry designer for Coco Chanel and Paul Flato, Fulco di Verdura opened his own jewelry salon in New York in 1939. His designs were remarkable for their defiance of the trends of the time. Instead of focusing on linear forms like strap bracelets and sautoirs, Fulco played around with designs that borrowed from nature and mythology. His “winged” jewels were an amalgamation of these themes, inspired by both the wings of Mercury, the messenger God, and the strength and grace of eagle wings.

He played around with this motif while at Chanel, creating a suite of gold wing earclips and brooches for Coco Chanel’s 1934 spring collection. He then refined the design to create a platinum and diamond necklace arranged as a series of eagle wings for his inaugural eponymous collection in 1939. The winged motif was one that Verdura returned to again and again, creating a series of brooches centering precious or semiprecious stones that were popular for their whimsy and wearability. The design reached the apex of popularity when the actress Jean Fontaine wore a pink topaz, gold and diamond version in Alfred Hitchcock’s film Suspicion. While Verdura was not the first jeweler to utilize the wing motif, he created winged jewels that are as modern today as they were in the 1930s. This particular winged brooch, centering a large oval sapphire and set with round diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires is an elevated version of one of Verdura’s most recognizable designs.