Lot 312
  • 312

Gold, Diamond and Emerald 'Serpenti' Bracelet-Watch, Bulgari

200,000 - 300,000 USD
225,000 USD
bidding is closed


  • Bulgari
  • gold, diamond, emerald
Designed as a coiled serpent, the scales composed of gold tubogas links, the head and tail highlighted by round and marquise-shaped diamonds, further accented by marquise-shaped emeralds, with cabochon emerald eyes, the mouth opening to reveal a watch dial with baton indicators, mechanical movement, internal circumference 5½ inches, expandable, the dial signed Bulgari and Jaeger-LeCoultre, the caseback signed Bulgari, numbered 146634, with French assay and workshop marks; circa 1960s. With signed box.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a certificate from Carlo Illario & Flli stating that the watch was manufactured by Carlo Illario & Flli for Bulgari Rome, circa 1960.

This watch is similar in design to one in Elizabeth Taylor's Collection. Taylor's Serpenti watch is illustrated on the cover of Bulgari: Serpenti Collection by Marion Fasel.

As one of the oldest Italian jewelry houses dating back to 1884, Bulgari has a longstanding tradition of creating jewelry with the highest quality craftsmanship, utilizing the finest gemstones available.   During the middle of the 20th century Bulgari embraced the post-war dichotomy within Italian society – the desire to embrace a new, modern way of life as well as stay connected to Italy’s deep classical roots.  This ideal has carried forward to present day with Bulgari’s jewelry capturing the essence of Italian glamour for the contemporary woman.  In a 1963 article in Connaissance des Arts, art historian Evelyne Schlumberger affirms, “A Bulgari jewel is as recognizable as a Chanel suit.”

One of the most recognizable designs which Bulgari first introduced in the 1940s, is the tubogas “gas pipe” technique, which later developed into literal interpretations of the serpent in the 1960s.  Lot 312 is an exemplary serpenti bracelet-watch which highlights a serpent’s head perched atop the snake’s coiling body, opening to reveal a watch dial.   This piece captures the spirit and essence of the sophisticated and stylish jewelry collector, which Bulgari has long striven to embody.