Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France
- platinum, diamond, sapphire
Art Deco design is a powerful balance of bold form and restraint. Strong, at times soaring shapes—whether found in a Ruhlmann cabinet, a Georg Jensen cocktail shaker, or the Chrysler building—maintain a controlled linearity and limited color palette. The jewelers of the 1920s and ‘30s translated this aesthetic into the use of step-cut stones, including the now timeless emerald cut as well as the baguette cut, often applied to colored accent stones.
The ring featured here is striking in its simplicity. Its elongated emerald-cut diamond is tightly flanked by vertically arranged sapphires guiding the eye in a sweeping direction. The whiter-than-white appearance of the diamond is attributable to a complete lack of nitrogen, placing the stone within the prized Type IIa category. Many of the world’s most famous diamonds are Type IIa—the Koh-i-Noor perhaps being the best-known example—and were discovered centuries ago in the legendary mines of Golconda.