Lot 229
  • 229

Jadeite, chalcedony, enamel, ruby and diamond bracelet, circa 1930

22,000 - 32,000 CHF
112,500 CHF
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  • Jadeite, ruby, diamond, chalcedony, enamel, gold, platinum
Composed of three plaques, each set with a carved jadeite within a frame set with cabochon rubies and circular-cut and single-cut diamonds, and applied with black and blue enamel, alternating with white chalcedony links, length approximately 185mm, numbered, French assay marks, case signed Mauboussin.

Catalogue Note

By family tradition, this bracelet has been purchased at Mauboussin.

In 1827, Monsieur Rocher founded his first jewellery workshop and in 1869, Jean-Baptiste Noury, who was working with Rocher, took over the workshop. In 1876, Georges Mauboussin, Noury’s nephew, joined the house as an apprentice; in 1883, he took over the direction and in 1898 purchased it. The house was then named “B. Noury, G. Mauboussin Successeur”, and then again “Mauboussin, Successeur de Noury”. In 1923, the jewellery house moved to Rue de Choiseul, close to the Opera and the Place Vendôme. Georges Mauboussin, along with his son, Pierre, was responsible for the great success of the Maison in the 1920s, and attracted important clients such as the Prince of Wales, the Maharajah of Kapurthala, the Maharajah of Indore, as well as ministers, politicians, artists and writers.

After the First World War, fashion changed radically. The Haute Couture maisons and designers like Paul Poiret introduced new designs and new standards of beauty. Dresses were shorter and sleeveless, fabrics were fluid and soft, hairdos were shorter and the coupe à la garçonne was very much en vogue. Jewellery houses looked at these new lines and worked closely with couturiers to adapt the jewels and parures to these looks. Necklaces were longer; the sautoir was very sought after by the élégantes of the 1920s, and paired two or three bracelets. Colour was also very important with these new fashions. India and the Far East fascinated the Western world. Jewellery houses used rubies, sapphires and emeralds, or even jadeites carved in the form of leaves, foliate motifs or exotic fruits which were highlighted with diamonds and black enamel.