Rare Gem Set and Diamond Pendent Necklace, Mauboussin
- Onyx, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Diamond, Platinum
Established by George Mauboussin in late 19th century Paris, France, Maison Mauboussin won many awards in the 1920's for its innovative creations which boasted legibility of design, clear bold lines and a proclivity towards geometric patterns, including receiving the Legion of Honour and Grand Prize at the 1925 Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris.
Following the First World War, fashion changed radically. Necklaces were longer; the sautoir was very sought after by the élégantes of the 1920s, who wore long necklaces often supporting a pendant, and paired with two or three bracelets. The fascination with the Far East also drew inspiration to use more coloured gemstones, in the form of leaves, foliate motifs or exotic fruits, highlighted with diamonds and black enamel or onyx.
Between 1928 and 1931, Mauboussin held three themed exhibitions – Rubies, Emeralds and Diamonds. These exhibitions brought the Maison tremendous publicity, as well as many elite clients, including European royalty and Hollywood legends, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo.
The present pendent necklace is a very fine example of this innovative look, perfectly demonstrating how Mauboussin participated in this style revolution. Set with carved gemstones, the long sautoir can be separated into four bracelets with a detachable pendant of giardinetto motif. Designed in 1929, this piece embodies the archetypal designs of the era.