Lot 43
  • 43

'Contra Mundum' (Against the World) White Gold and Diamond Evening Glove, Shaun Leane

Estimate
300,000 - 400,000 USD
Log in to view results
bidding is closed

Description

  • Diamond, gold
Eighteen karat white gold glove section engraved with fine lines following the contours of the hand; applied with a tracery of branches and the silhouettes of birds in flight, set with diamonds. Gold chainmail finger sections with similarly adorned finger joints and finger tips set with diamond finger nails and attached with a hinged rear closure. The chainmail sleeve section featuring detachable pavé-set diamond bird and branch cuff, while the chainmail ground is applied with 11 birds in flight, three of which feature large diamond centers. Joined with three clasps at the rear.  Diamonds totaling 4,290 stones, together weighing approximately 52.00 carats, approximately F color, VS clarity.  Gold weight totaling approximately 643 dwts, length 8 inches, sleeve section 1 ½ inches, detachable cuff 9 ½ inches, signed Shaun Leane, with marker's marks and British hallmarks; 2010.

Condition

In good condition, with 18 karat white gold glove section engraved with fine lines following the contours of the hand. Applied with a tracery of branches and the silhouettes of birds in flight, set with diamonds. Gold chainmail finger sections with similarly adorned finger joints and finger tips set with diamond finger nails and attached with a hinged rear closure. The chainmail sleeve section featuring detachable pavé-set diamond bird and branch cuff, while the chainmail ground is applied with 11 birds in flight, three of which feature large diamond centers. Joined with three clasps at the rear. Diamonds together weighing approximately 52.00 carats, approximately F color, VS clarity, totaling 4,290 stones. Gold weight totaling approximately 643 dwts.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

As a child, Daphne’s fascination with armor began through her reading of Sir Thomas Malory’s Le Morte d’Arthur. She was captivated by the book’s pictures of Renaissance knights, and was further inspired by trips to the Metropolitan and Wallace Museums where she was able to closely inspect richly ornamented suits of armor. When considering her choice of words in naming the glove, Daphne settled on ‘Contra Mundum’ because she said: 'Armor is like a mask; a protective layer that keeps you hidden from the world. There is something isolating, yet strangely reassuring when you put it on.'

Shaun Leane recalls, ‘At a crowded exhibition opening at the Victoria & Albert Museum, Lee, Daphne and myself huddled in a corner trying avoid the mayhem. She said to me, “Shaun, I need some armor to protect me,’ a simple sentence that triggered the creation of this piece. It combines an armor-like structure with the elegant femininity of a satin evening glove. The diamond cuff can be detached and worn separately as a bracelet – making the glove more versatile to wear.

'It took four years to make by myself and three other craftsmen. It took one year alone just to produce the hand-linked chainmail sleeve which included 21 separate fittings to ensure its perfection. I personally crafted the diamond-set finger tips, knuckles and the myriad diamond birds that encircle it. The fine engraved lines on the hand-piece are intended to represent the wind. The idea for the birds came to me on a trip to India with Lee. In the distance, I noticed hundreds of birds on a rooftop that rose to the skies in a giant flock, grouping together to fend off eagles and other predators. These swooping birds seemed the perfect adornment for Daphne’s armor glove.

For me, this piece exemplifies Shaun Leane jewellery today. It’s where dreams are turned into reality, where we push the boundaries both technically and in terms of design. It’s where jewellery becomes fashion – like the finest piece of intricately-detailed haute couture.’ S.L.

Worn by Lady Gaga with Daphne Guinness on the cover of V Magazine’s V99 issue.