Coiled Collar, Shaun Leane

Heavy silver-plated brass coils with inner neck cushion and velvet ribbon ties, height 5 inches.

Savage Beauty, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 4 May - 7 August, 2011 and Victoria & Albert Museum, 14 March – 2 August, 2015.

‘This was one of Lee’s favorite pieces – as demonstrated by the fact it was used in so many shows. It is also one of the most famous and celebrated pieces. It was a nightmare to make as it was worked in brass. I had trained as a goldsmith for 13 years and it was a new material to me. To assist me, Lee cut a calico toile to use as a guide. It was the first time as a jeweller that I worked to a fashion pattern – an entirely new way of working.’ S.L.

Created for Bjork, who wore the piece on the cover of her album Homogenic, photographed by Nick Knight, 1997.

Worn in Alexander McQueen's 'It's a Jungle Out There' Collection, Autumn/Winter 1997-98.

Worn in 'The Horn of Plenty' Collection, Autumn/Winter 2009-10.

Extended in height and worn in McQueen's second Givenchy haute couture show and the 'Eclect Dissect' Collection, Autumn/Winter 1997-98.