Lot 68
  • 68

An enamelled emerald and diamond-set kundan brooch (or pendant), India, Jaipur, 18th/19th century

Estimate
35,000 - 45,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

  • semi precious stones and gold
designed as a floral blossom comprising diamonds set in the kundan technique around a large central emerald, suspended spinel, the reverse with detailed polychrome enamelling, two small hooks above for attaching

Condition

The diamonds foil-backed with some oxidisation to foil backing resulting in discoloration, the central emerald probably a later replacement as noticeable by the setting, the spinel fragile as with internal inclusions, reverse enamel bright, some minor ware to extremities as consistent with age and use, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The present item was decorated in the kundan technique, a quintessentially Indian technique wherein precious stones are set into narrow ribbons of hyper-purified gold (kundan) that acquires an adhesive quality at room temperature. Gemstones are individually fixed into place and are backed with polished silver or gold in order to maximise their reflective quality. The design is further enhanced with a bright enamel layer (mina) (U. R. Bala Krishnan and M. Sushil Kumar, Dance of the Peacock, Mumbai, 2010, p. 276). Historically, gemstones were believed to hold protective qualities and have also served as indicators of the owner’s economic and social status. Namely, diamonds and emeralds were used by Mughal emperors and Maharajas as symbols of power and economic prosperity (O. Untracht, Traditional Jewelry of India, London, 2010, p. 312).