Lot 493
  • 493

Very important and unique gem set and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s

1,440,000 - 2,400,000 CHF
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  • Van Cleef & Arpels
  • Rubies, diamonds, emeralds, pearls, gold
Comprising: a necklace of Indian inspiration, set with variously shaped emeralds and rubies, seed pearls, drop-shaped and a carved emerald, circular-cut, cushion-shaped and a pear-shaped diamond, supporting a detachable pendant set with a cabochon pear-shaped emerald, circular-cut rubies, similarly cut, cushion- and drop-shaped emeralds, circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, may be worn as a brooch, necklace length approximately 490mm, French maker's mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, pendant signed V.C.A., numbered; and a pair of ear clips, each surmount set with a cabochon emerald, circular-cut rubies and diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant of chandelier design, set with circular-cut rubies, similarly and single-cut diamonds, and drop-shaped emeralds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, dated 1966, a few stones deficient, fitted case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.


Sotheby's Saint Moritz, February 1993, lot 696.


Cf.: David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, 2014, pg. 424 for an illustration of this demi-parure.

Cf.: P. Proddow and alii, American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition, New York, 1987, pg. 153 for an illustration of this demi-parure. 


Rubies of Burmese origin cannot be imported into the US; this piece may contain a ruby of Burmese origin and therefore may not be able to be imported into the US. Certification of non-Burmese origin is required before the import of rubies into the US. Please see our Important Notices and contact the jewellery department for further information.Necklace with French assay mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. Pendant brooch signed V.C.A. N.Y., numbered 35376, stamped 585 for 14 carat gold. Ear clips signed Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y., numbered 36638 and 9105 CS, dated 1966, stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. Emeralds well matched in colour, green of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, abrasions and nicks. Rubies well matched in colour, purplish red of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, chips and abrasions. Pearls of white to cream body colour, some with growth marks and blemishes, one pearl deficient. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 100.00 - 120.00 carats, on average H-L colour, SI-I clarity, chips and nicks, as gauged and graded in the mounting, a few diamonds deficient. Signs of normal wear and tarnish to the metal. Fitted case signed Van Cleef & Arpels New York, Paris, Palm Beach, London.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.

Catalogue Note

This magnificent emerald, ruby, diamond and cultured pearl necklace and earrings is one of the finest examples of the highly chromatic jewellery produced by Van Cleef and Arpels in the late 1960s. Here a traditional Indian 'Thali' collar has been transformed into a unique and spectacular necklace; the earrings are equally influenced by Eastern designs. The necklace, manufactured and reworked in 1965 and 1966, is perhaps one of the earliest example of the re-emergence of Indian-inspired jewels.