Fine diamond sautoir, Cartier, circa 1930

Composed of geometric links set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, supporting a pendant similarly set and highlighted with fringes set with circular-, square-cut, pear-shaped and baguette diamonds, length approximately 670mm, signed Cartier, French assay and partial maker's marks, one diamond deficient, case signed Cartier. 

Signed Cartier, inscribed made in France. Partial French maker's mark. French assay marks for platinum. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 40.00 - 50.00 carats, one diamond deficient, on average H-J Colour, some L-M colour, VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mounting. Signs of normal wear to the metal, clasp secure, safety catch. In very good condition. Gross weight approximately 115 grams. Fitted case signed Cartier, damaged.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The First World War put a dramatic end to the frivolous, light-hearted spirit of the Belle Epoque and to its extravagant excesses in the field of dress fashion and jewellery. Cartier, as always sensitive to changes in fashion, was able to foresee well before political events dramatically precipitated the world in four years of conflict, that women were ready to revolutionise the way they dressed, adorned themselves and behaved in society. During the first decade of the 20^th century, Cartier had already started to trace the lines of the jewellery style which was going to encounter the favour of the dynamic and emancipated women of the 1920s and suit their short tunic dresses and hairstyles à la garçonne.  A move somehow triggered by the contemporary experiences of Cubist painters and certainly influenced by the Vienna Secessionist artists led by Klimt, Hoffmann and Olbrich who promoted the evolution of a style for painting, architecture and interior decoration based on squares and circles. Jewels gradually lost their original delicate lightness to assume a solid rigidity, foreshadowing the development in jewellery design which, after the war, would fully embrace the tenets of what is known as Art Deco.