Lot 264
  • 264

A jade, enamel and gold vanity case, Berlioz-Leroy, Paris, circa 1925

Estimate
4,000 - 6,000 GBP
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Description

  • A jade, enamel and gold vanity case, Berlioz-Leroy, Paris, circa 1925
  • jade, enamel, gold
  • 9.6cm., 3 3/4 in. wide
rectangular with two cylinders at each end below, the lid applied with a jade panel pierced and carved with a band of foliage flanking a lozenge, on a ground of simulated lapis lazuli enamel, diamond chip thumbpieces, containing two powder compartments and lipstick holder, a mirror, an ivory tablet and gold pencil, maker's mark P C an omega, French 3e titre (18ct), numbered 589/1, inscribed: 'Berlioz-Leroy. Paris. Cannes. La Baule', in leather case stamped for: Berlioz-Leroy/ Joaillier/ 19 Rue de la Paix/ Paris /Cannes/ La Baule

Condition

overall good condition
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

Paris in the 1920s was the centre of avant garde art which profoundly influenced the work of the jewellers of the time. The first recorded vanity case was created by Cartier in 1921 for the style leader Elsie de Wolfe which then ignited the jewellers' imagination for extraordinary cases, embellished with jade, onyx, amber and other precious materials.

Mademoiselle Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy appear to have been in business together in Paris at 19 rue de la Paix from around 1920. Certainly they took out a full page colour advertisement in the December 1920 edition of French Vogue, showing a drawing of a fascinating Orientalist lady draped in elegant coral and jade jewellery.  The celebrated actress Jeanne Rolly was proud to announce that her ancient Chinese coral beads and jade earrings came from the house of Berlioz-Leroy. In May 1923, the correspondent of La Renaissance de l'Art français et des Industries de Luxe wrote 'Berlioz-Leroy & Cie. composent pour les élégantes des bijoux personnels, dont les dessins exclusivement créés pour la maison, ne sont jamais répétés et gardent le charme de l'oeuvre unique'.  The firm continued in business at least until 1937, by which time it had moved to 9 rue des Capucines, retaining also an outlet in La Baule.