An enamelled and gem-set torque (hasli), North India, 19th century

of rigid ovoid form with an applied gem-set rosette to centre and hinged and screw-pin clasp for attaching, the upper side decorated with faceted diamond-set flowerheads and leaves on a white and pink enamel ground echoing the floral design, reverse decorated in green, blue, pink and yellow enamels on a gilt ground with scrolling flowerheads, edges with row of strung seed-pearls

The central faceted stone with pink foil backing, some minor encrustations around the gold-lining, could benefit from a clean (please consult a professional restorer for further advice on cleaning), as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Mughal craftsmen inspired goldsmiths outside the confines of the court to produce jewellery that combined the ornamentation and refinement of the Mughal court with traditional rural forms such as the torque. This type of necklace might have been worn by the wife of a zamindar (landowner) or merchant. For a comparable hasli, see Markevitch 1987, p.44, no.15 and Untracht 1997, p.352, nos.776 & 777. Another example of similar style but with blue and green enamelwork was in the Jean and Krishnâ Riboud collection, now in the Musée des Arts asiatiques - Guimet, Paris, inv. no. MA6773 (A. Okada, L'Inde des Princes: La donation Jean et Krishnâ Riboud, Musée des Arts asiatiques - Guimet, Paris, 2000, p.155).