Lot 202
  • 202

Platinum and Diamond Tiara, Designed by Marianne Ostier for Oesterreicher, Wien

30,000 - 50,000 USD
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  • platinum, diamond
Depicting the Albanian royal crest of the 'Ram of Skanderberg' atop a graduated floral vine, set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 28.05 carats, accented by baguette diamonds weighing approximately 4.80 carats; circa 1938. With signed and fitted royal presentation box.


Formerly in the Collection of Queen Geraldine of Albania.


Jewels and the Woman: The Romance, Magic and Art of Feminine Adornment by Marianne Ostier, pages 109 and 222.

From Sultan or Store, Tiara Can Be Woman's Crowning Glory, Enid Nemy, The New York Times, April 12, 1970.


In very good condition suggesting minimal wear. The larger old European-cut diamonds approximately G-J color, VS-SI clarity, the remaining diamonds approximately G-I color and predominantly VS clarity. The frame composed of white gold allowing for greater pliability and a snug, but comfortable, fit. A ribbon may be attached to the frame's terminals for additional security. Marked "SE" on each terminal. Height from frame to apex approximately 2 5/8 inches. The tool-gilt, red leather presentation box with minor to moderate scratching and small spots of staining. The top applied with a gilt metal plaque of the Albanian coat of arms. The ivory silk lining imprinted with the Albanian coat of arms and signed Oesterreicher, Wien. Measures 8 x 8 x 6 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby’s is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby’s is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby’s does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD “AS IS” IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Designed by Marianne Ostier for Oesterreicher, later to become Ostier, Inc. of New York, this tiara was created for the marriage of Queen Geraldine and King Zog I of Albania in 1938. Born in Budapest, Geraldine was known as 'The White Rose of Hungary;' and so this floral design topped by the Albanian royal crest was the perfect ornament for the royal ceremony. As Marianne Ostier recalled in her 1958 book Jewels and the Woman, the tiara was, '...a decorative and distinctive diamond crown for the decorative and distinguished Queen Geraldine.'

Elmer Holmes Bobst gifted this tiara to Mamdouha in 1966, as he saw it as the perfect jewel to be worn to the White House at a dinner being held in his honor. According to friends of the Bobsts, Mamdouha wore her finest jewels when invited to events as she viewed this as the ultimate compliment to a host or hostess.