Platinum, Natural Pearl, Diamond, Amethyst, Onyx and Rock Crystal Bracelet, Mauboussin, Paris

The hexagon-shaped links spaced by panels of geometric design, decorated with natural pearls of white and pink hues, accented by buff-top amethyst squares with black onyx flourishes, set throughout with old mine and old European-cut diamonds, length 7½ inches, numbered 023092, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 1927.

Mauboussin: Editions du Regard, by Marguerite de Cerval, page 88.

In good condition overall. Some chipping to the corners of a few of the rock crystal links, as well as a few surface scratches. The onyx segments are intact, other than light nicks to a one tablet. Buff-top amethysts are a rich medium deep purple color and eye clean. The pearls range in hue from silvery-rose to lavender-gray with strong overtones of pink, green and lavender; slightly waxy to very good luster and minor to moderate blemishing mainly in the form of wrinkling and dimpling of the skins. Diamonds are approximately H-I color and VS-SI clarity. Very nice workmanship, flexible and comfortable on the wrist. Maker's mark and assay marks on clasp tongue, numbered on reverse of female end of the clasp. Approximately 3/4 inch wide. Accompanied by GIA report no. 6177374707 stating that the pearls are natural, freshwater.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Marguerite de Cerval.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 6177374707 stating that the pearls are natural, freshwater.

The 1920s were rife with immense technological, political and social change which had a tremendous impact on the art of the period. The organic and curvaceous designs of pre-war, Art Nouveau Europe gave way to geometric and colorful Art Deco designs. From this shift emerged a new image of the modern woman. She freed herself from the binds of cumbersome corsets, heavy skirts, and fussy chignons in favor of linear, sleeveless shift dresses and daring chin-length bobs. Jewelry designs followed suit and Art Deco jewelry became known for linear forms, bright colors, and dynamic compositions.

The designs of the Parisian firm Mauboussin were made to adorn this new generation of modern women. Although Mauboussin first opened in 1827, they rose to prominence in the 1920s when their creative designs were exhibited at important international expositions and in their salons in Rio de Janiero, New York, and Buenos Aires.  Mauboussin designed bright, bold, and innovative pieces that were at the forefront of the Art Deco movement.

This bracelet was designed at the apex of Mauboussin’s popularity in 1927, just two years after they won a Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. It is a perfect example of the creative and dynamic pieces created by Mauboussin during this period. The bracelet is dominantly geometric: composed of a rectangular grid of diamonds and amethysts and interspersed by clean links of rock crystal. The piece also experiments with the contrast of soft pink and white pearls punctuated by shiny black onyx. It is vibrant and varied in dimension, texture and medium. One can easily imagine this bracelet adorning the slender wrist of a 1920s woman flaunting a fashionable bob and a sleeveless, straight silk dress. A truly unique Art Deco masterpiece, this bracelet perfectly captures the exuberance and dynamism of the period that inspired its design.