Lot 356
  • 356

Iconic Platinum, Emerald, Ruby, Diamond and Enamel 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New York

1,300,000 - 1,800,000 USD
1,630,000 USD
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  • platinum, diamond, emerald, ruby, enamel
The highly articulated openwork strap of foliate design, the diamond-set branches accented by carved rubies and emeralds, applied with black enamel, the clasp decorated with chevron motifs and cabochon rubies, set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 8.45 carats, length 7¼ inches, signed Cartier, partially numbered 57_7; circa 1928. With signed and fitted box.



Catalogue Note

The epitome of Eastern influences on Art Deco designs, tutti frutti pieces by Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored stones and diamonds, together with the precise application of black enamel all serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, the tutti frutti style rapidly gained popularity amongst the most fashionable women and discerning jewelry collectors of the time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes.

Perhaps what is most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each creation is completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti frutti jewels may share resemblances however no two are ever the same. What makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large presence of carved emeralds and rubies, connected throughout by a diamond-set vine, as well as the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the style. What makes this an exceptional tutti frutti piece, however, is the delicate framing applied around each jeweled flower and leaf, the black enamel providing added contrast to each stone while also creating a harmonious balance throughout. The supremely Art Deco-style clasp, with its sleek geometry, serves as stylized vases from which the tutti frutti vine may grow and flourish from end to end of the bracelet.

As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its original fitted case, this tutti frutti bracelet beautifully showcases the ultimate craftsmanship for which Cartier is known.  Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting jewelry connoisseurs; the present example with its vibrant hues and highly flexible form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear.

Bracelet of similar design are illustrated in:

Gilles Chazal, The Art of Cartier, The Musée du Petite Palais, October 1989-January 1990, page 140, fig. 287.

A bracelet of similar design is illustrated in The Cartier Collection: Jewelry by François Chaille, pages 189, 191 and 192.