Iconic Platinum, Emerald, Ruby, Diamond and Enamel 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New York

The highly articulated openwork strap of foliate design, the diamond-set branches accented by carved rubies and emeralds, applied with black enamel, the clasp decorated with chevron motifs and cabochon rubies, set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 8.45 carats, length 7¼ inches, signed Cartier, partially numbered 57_7; circa 1928. With signed and fitted box.

 

In good condition with gentle surface wear to the mounting throughout. Very minor losses and irregularities to the enamel, some possibly from the time of manufacture. On the third ruby cluster at left from the male end of the clasp there are two small areas where the platinum ground is exposed (approximately 1 mm in diameter). The diamonds are approximately F-I color, VS-SI clarity, several bearing small chips. The translucent carved rubies are medium to medium-deep pinkish to purplish red, moderately to heavily included. As is typical for this type of material, there are surface-reaching inclusions throughout and many of the rubies present cavities to the reverse. The translucent to semi-translucent carved emeralds are medium to medium-deep green, heavily included with minor abrading to the high points. Most of the emeralds reveal small clusters of black inclusions, surface-reaching inclusions and cavities. Two of the emeralds have a light coating of a greenish residue rubbed into their cavities, but this appears to be removable. All of the carved colored stones appear to be stable in their mountings. The semi-transparent cabochon rubies are medium purplish pink red with moderate abrading. Signed and numbered on the female end of the clasp. Signature with block capital letters. The period box in good general condition with some wear to the red finish, particularly at the corners and to the top where a label may have been affixed. Light soiling to the beige velvet interior with minor fraying along the perimeter. The lining is signed Cartier with the New York address listed first followed by Paris and London. The underside of the box is stamped Cartier.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The epitome of Eastern influences on Art Deco designs, tutti frutti pieces by Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored stones and diamonds, together with the precise application of black enamel all serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After first being exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, the tutti frutti style rapidly gained popularity amongst the most fashionable women and discerning jewelry collectors of the time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes.

Perhaps what is most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each creation is completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti frutti jewels may share resemblances however no two are ever the same. What makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large presence of carved emeralds and rubies, connected throughout by a diamond-set vine, as well as the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the style. What makes this an exceptional tutti frutti piece, however, is the delicate framing applied around each jeweled flower and leaf, the black enamel providing added contrast to each stone while also creating a harmonious balance throughout. The supremely Art Deco-style clasp, with its sleek geometry, serves as stylized vases from which the tutti frutti vine may grow and flourish from end to end of the bracelet.

As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its original fitted case, this tutti frutti bracelet beautifully showcases the ultimate craftsmanship for which Cartier is known.  Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting jewelry connoisseurs; the present example with its vibrant hues and highly flexible form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear.

Bracelet of similar design are illustrated in:

Gilles Chazal, The Art of Cartier, The Musée du Petite Palais, October 1989-January 1990, page 140, fig. 287.

A bracelet of similar design is illustrated in The Cartier Collection: Jewelry by François Chaille, pages 189, 191 and 192.