Lot 1742
  • 1742

Rare Ruby, Diamond and Onyx 'Panthère' Ring, Monture Cartier

Estimate
18,000,000 - 25,000,000 HKD
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Description

  • monture Cartier
  • ruby, diamond, onyx, emerald, platinum
Designed as a panther with a head that swivels, the body pavé-set with numerous circular-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 2.00 carats, flecked by onyx, highlighted by a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 10.62 carats, accented by emerald-set eyes, mounted in platinum, signed MT Cartier and numbered AJE935, with French assay mark. Ring size: 6

Condition

Colour and Clarity: According to Gübelin, AGL and SSEF reports, the ruby is natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating and clarity enhancement. Please refer to the reports for details. In our opinion, the ruby is of strong saturation, eye clean and lively. Upon 10x loupe, there are natural crystal and fingerprint inclusions, with a few tiny pits or surface fissures, but not seen to naked eyes and very common in natural rubies. Diamonds are about E to F colours, VS clarity. Two small emeralds are of intense green colour, eye clean and lively. Signed "MT Cartier" and numbered, with platinum mark. Condition: Well-made platinum ring mount with three dimensional and lively craftsmanship, signs of normal wear to the shank, overall in very good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by AGL, Gübelin and SSEF reports numbered CS 38982, 0708670 and 80730, dated 20 June 2007, 3 September 2007 and 29 June 2015 respectively, stating that the 10.62 carat ruby is natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
The Gübelin Appendix states that 'this ruby possesses a saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency and a finely proportioned cut...such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural Burmese rubies of this size.'
The AGL Letter dated 21 November 2008 also states that the Total Quality Integration Rating of this ruby is Excellent and that this ruby 'would be definitely be classified as Mogok TypeTM.'


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THE PRIDE OF THE PANTHER

Rich in history and elegance, the Cartier panther may be the most sought-after statement piece that ever exists. For over a hundred years, it has been a quintessential symbol of determined, powerful yet elegant feminine figure. Since its debut in 1914, this Cartier feline has accrued a respectable list of patrons, including and not restricted to royalties and famous celebrities. Be it rapacious or serene, striding or in a more relaxed posture, each exquisite panther embodies a unique personality of its own, proudly displaying the mastery of artisans and savoir-faire of ‘The King of Jewellers’.

After World War II, panther has become the most significant symbols of all Cartier original initiatives. Jeanne Toussaint, a life-long friend and muse of Louis Cartier and the director of haute joaillerie at Cartier from 1933 to 1970, was the person who brought the panther to life, transforming it from an ornament into a 20th century timeless icon of the house. Her carefree spirit, fashionable style and aura of grandeur also earned her the nickname ‘La Panthère’. She oversaw the making of the first full three-dimensional panther brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess in 1948. The design featured a big cat sitting on top of a 116.74 carat cabochon emerald, which has now become a eulogy of love and a signature of romanticism. Another notable panther piece owned by the Duchess was an articulated bracelet which was sold for 4,521,250GBP in Sotheby’s London back in 2010. This panther has set the auction record for the highest price paid for a Cartier jewel at that time.

To be offered is a unique Cartier ring (Lot 1742) which stages this playful menagerie with an exceedingly rare natural Burmese ruby of 10.62 carats, bringing ‘the king of gems’ and ‘the king of jewellers’ together as one extraordinary creation. The impressive ruby itself is an extremely rare find originating from the legendary Mogok mines, yet to pair this important gemstone that signifies passion with the intriguing wild creature is an unprecedented union, definitely one-of-its-kind.

The panther is now a permanent source of inspiration as well as a motif synonymous to the House of Cartier. This stunning panther with the opulent brush of fiery red will conquer any woman’s heart. It is timeless femininity; it is fearlessness; it is a true legend. Just as Pierre Rainero, the Style and Heritage Director of Cartier, once said, ‘there is a panther for every woman.’