18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Ruby Bead and Diamond 'Boule' Ring, Cartier, Paris

Of bombé form, with seven rows composed of ruby beads, accented at the sides with round diamonds weighing approximately 1.15 carats, gross weight approximately 18 dwts, size 6½, signed Cartier Paris, with French assay and workshop marks.

In good condition. The ruby beads are a medium deep purplish-red color and are heavily included, which is typical for stet material. Many of those inclusions break the surface in the form of fissures, cavities and chips. Diamonds are approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. The shank exhibits scratching and nicking, signaling regular wear. Signed Cartier Paris on the undergallery and with a rubbed maker's mark on the outside of the shank. Hefty and well made. Feels comfortable on the finger.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Decorative jewels by Cartier using colored stone beads were popular with many style icons during the post war years. In 1948 the design house created a pair of similar ruby and sapphire bead rings, without diamond-set profiles, for Daisy Fellowes. These rings have since been illustrated Cartier: The Power of Style by Eva Eisler, Rony Plesl, Pierre Rainero and Pascale Lepeu, page 162, and sold by Sotheby's Geneva on May 15, 2008, as part of the collection of Lily Marinho.

In the early 1960s Cartier updated the design of the ring to include the diamond panels present in the lot offered here. Rings of similar design, fashioned from rubies and emeralds, were part of the collection of the Duchess of Windsor and sold by Sotheby's Geneva as lots 49 and 50 in the legendary 1987 sale. An additional illustration of the 1960s design may be viewed in Cartier Collection: Jewelry by Françoise Chaille, page 284.