Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Ring

Designed as a heart set with six round and oval-shaped cabochon rubies weighing approximately 14.50 carats, accented by round rubies, further set with single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .40 carat, size 6¼.

In very good condition. The rubies vary slightly in tone from medium to deep very slightly purplish red. They range in clarity from moderately included to more heavily included and the level of surface reaching fractures range from minor to significant and the transparency of the rubies varies from semi-transparent to translucent. Although the rubies are somewhat decorative in quality, they are bright and add a sculptural quality to the ring. The diamonds are approximately H-I color, VS clarity. The shank shows evidence of sizing at the bottom. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 65500 stating that one ruby weighing 2.25 carats is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a copy of GIA report no. 1152958101 stating that the center cabochon ruby is natural corundum, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 65500 stating that one ruby weighing 2.25 carats is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Charming and whimsical, the present ring is reminiscent of designs produced by the equally whimsical jeweler Paul Flato in the 1930s. Born in Texas with a propensity for adventure and luxury, Flato arrived on the New York jewelry scene in the early 1920s. During this time, the bon vivant from Texas gained a foothold in New York society courtesy of the friendships formed though his former classmates at medical and business school, ultimately leading to his setting up his own atelier. With his client base well-established, Flato expanded his business to Los Angeles where he began designing for the likes of Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn. 

His iconic “puffy” or “fat” hearts were born out of a collaboration with Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers who, being theatrical in appearance and outsized in personality, was the perfect canvas for these colorful, energized creations. One particularly stunning example, slathered in rubies like a thick coating of raspberry jam and pierced by an arrow, was selected by Rogers for her 1939 photo shoot in Vogue. Although unsigned, the present ring is evocative of numerous pieces in the Flato archives, representing all the fun, familiarity, and passion one would expect from this great American jeweler.