Platinum, Diamond and Ruby Necklace

Designed as a flexible serpent set with numerous old European, rose and old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 50.00 carats, the crown set with an oval-shaped ruby, completed by two cabochon ruby eyes, length adjusts from 15 to 15½ inches, 20 small diamonds missing.

In very good condition, The snake is nicely flexible and well-made. The diamonds are approximately H-J color with a few K-L examples, the clarity is approximately VS-SI overall. As stated in the printed catalogue, 20 small diamonds are missing. The faceted ruby is medium dark red, and moderately included with some minor nicking and chipping to the facet junctions. The cabochon rubies are medium red and moderately included, one of the cabochons exhibits a surface reaching fracture and the other bears a significant chip to the top of the stone. The length is adjustable, from 13 to 15 1/2 inches. The clasp is 18K white gold.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The serpent motif has wound its way through the history of jewelry design from antiquity to the present day. Rooted in the rich mythology of the Ancient World, serpent imagery adorned Egyptian tombs, Roman religious monuments, and Greek shrines such as the Temple at Delphi, where priestesses famously nurtured live snakes for use in ritualistic ceremonies. Frequently depicted devouring its own tail in a circular formation the Greeks called an ouroboros, the serpent symbolized both eternal life and wisdom to the civilizations that surrounded the Mediterranean Sea. Pharaohs and the celebrated Cleopatra wore serpent jewelry set with lustrous gems to reflect their immortality and unearthly omniscience. During the Renaissance, physicians adopted and wore the serpent-wrapped Rod of Asclepius from Greek mythology to represent the wisdom required to execute their life-giving craft.

In the nineteenth century, serpent-inspired jewelry became de rigueur after Prince Albert proposed to his cousin Victoria with an emerald-set engagement ring of ouroboros design, its form foretelling the love and affection that endured throughout their marriage and, indeed, Victoria’s devotion well after Albert’s untimely death. Many nineteenth-century jewelers delighted in proving their mastery over metal by manipulating gold into realistically-rendered, multi-sectioned creatures that slithered over necks and wrists. By the turn of the next century, renowned Art Nouveau jewelers such as René Lalique and Georges Fouquet veered away from realism to create fantastical serpents enhanced by polychrome enamel and non-traditional gemstones.  

The serpent continues to captivate jewelry collectors today, with maisons such as Boucheron and Bulgari answering the call by transforming the ancient motif into the cornerstones of their iconic collections. The necklace offered here, remarkable in its use of platinum paved with a thick layer of diamonds, is an impressive example of this millennia-long artistic tradition.