Hardstone, gem set and diamond pendant/brooch, Tiffany & Co., 1870s

Of Egyptian design the portrait of carved hardstone foiled to the reverse, the headdress set with circular-cut sapphires, rubies, similarly cut and rose diamonds, brooch and pendant fittings interchangeable, signed Tiffany & Co., fitted case.

Cf: Clare Phillips, Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837 – 1987, Yale University Press 2006, page 136; Judith Price, American Jewelry, Running Press 2004, page 19 for illustrations of a similar piece by Tiffany & Co. dated 1870-80.

Signed Tiffany & Co. Carved portrait in good condition. Sapphires graduated in colour, typical inclusions visible under magnification. Rubies well matched in colour. Diamonds bright and lively. Pendant bail interchangeable with brooch fitting. Slight signs of wear to metal but generally in very good condition. Fitted case stamped JAYS Oxford St, London, W. Diamond Merchants Est. 1796.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Interest in Ancient Egypt was strong throughout the 19^th and into the beginning of the 20^th century, influencing many of the decorative arts including sculpture, architecture, porcelain and jewellery. The completion of the Suez Canal in 1869, allowing ships to travel between Europe and South Asia, helped to reinforce this demand. Tiffany & Co were one of the many jewellers who were inspired by Ancient Egypt along with Boucheron, Castellani and Giuliano. Although we do not know who carved the hardstone portraits it is possible that they were produced in Paris by Jean Menu or his son, who also supplied similar pieces to Boucheron.