A collection of jewels, Wièse, late 19th Century

Comprising: a silver and gold chatelaine designed as a series of open work grotesque scrolls depicting a mermaid, suspending an open faced fob watch, the circular white dial applied with Roman and Arabic numerals with subsidiary second dial, applied to the obverse with an entwined monogram, fob watch signed Breguet and numbered; gold and tortoise shell hair comb of arabesque design, case stamped Wièse; gold bracelet of ornate leaf motifs within oval links, length approximately 200mm; silver brooch of arabesque floral design; gold and silver stick-pin, entwined 'D' and 'R' initials with open and closed daisy motifs, reverse engraved with dedication; gold stick-pin of grotesque design, designed mirrored on the reverse; oval stick-pin set with enamel and mother of pearl backed motif of a putti playing a flute, case stamped Wièse; three identical gold collar studs with griffin motif, all signed Wièse, French assay and maker's marks, collar studs unsigned,  probably Wièse.    

Cf: Judy Rudoe, 'The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910', page 94 -109 for examples of similar designs by Louis Wièse.

Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of its time keeping and therefore a service should be carried out in the near future at the buyer's expense. We do not guarantee watch movements. French assay marks for 18 carat gold to chatelaine, studs and stick pins. Studs unsigned, each remaining piece signed Wiese, maker's marks. Daisy stick pin inscribed 'Semper, 28 Juillet, 1888'. Watch movement not running at time of cataloging, case signed Breguet, numbered 5118. Silver brooch originally suspending a chatelaine, later removed. Overqall in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Louis Wièse (1852-1923) went to considerable lengths to give his jewels the appearance of age.  His revivalist pieces were treated with mercury oxide, producing a reddish patina intended to give the impression that the jewels were ancient artefacts recovered from the ground. Using high carat gold and sometimes deliberately making pieces misshapen added to the allusion that jewels could be ancient were it not for the Wièse signature on the piece. The inspiration for this Gothic foliate designed piece would have been taken from architectural details and sculpture or possibly from prints by the 15th Century German artist Martin Schongauer.