Bill Blass

80 loose sketches.
11 by 8 1/2 in.; 28 by 21.5 cm.
Black, green and brown marker on tracing paper.
Marginal notes on several drawings. In a custom portfolio with printed title label by Blass entitled “Rough Sketches”. 

Collection season sketches, 1980s-1990s.

Pristine condition.
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Illustration was always at the crux of Bill Blass’s career trajectory.  He started his career as a fashion illustrator beginning with scribbling in the margins of his school books in his native Indiana.  By the age of 17 he had saved up enough money to move to New York and study fashion which then led to his securing a job as a sketcher for a sportswear designer.   Called to join a “special army unit” during the war he joined a group of writers, artists, and creative professionals that used their skills to sketch items that might trick the Germans into thinking the allies were in the neighborhood, thereby allowing colleagues to maneuver.  Throughout the war during personal moments he was observed by his fellow army officers drawing and sketching ideas for the fashion designs he was later to create. Two notebooks of Blass designs, thumbnail sketches of his ideas, are said to be in the Blass Archives. As early as his days in the army he was designing, selling his sketches through the connections he had already forged, for $2 apiece. 

The present lot comprises sketches of classical “American Sportswear”, seemingly for an upcoming spring collection.   These appear to be working sketches as many of the drawings include the word “use” in Blass’s hand, designating which images to produce that season. Blass’s clothing was intended to be worn day and night and he sought to elevate sportswear to the highest level.  He introduced heretofore male touches to womenswear, as evidenced by images in this assembled portfolio.  Interchangeable separates, (i.e. blouses, shirts, skirts and pants) are well represented.  Lightweight fabrics, such as jersey, cotton, rayon and Melton along with various textures are noted with marker. The love of jewels and ornate decoration are not neglected, as seen in a bejeweled soft coat.  Classic American sportswear recipes are offered: a tailored shirt; wrap and pleat skirts; sweaters and cotton knit tops skimming the collar bone. Instructions are noted by Blass’s arrows identifying the exact spot the fabric should hang on the body.  A full selection of practical clothes that are neither formal nor informal are presented– true sportswear. Luxury becomes about what fits into a woman’s lifestyle.