Sapphire and diamond vanity case, Cartier, circa 1937

The rectangular gold case decorated in a reeded pattern, the corners and thumbpiece highlighted with calibré-cut sapphires and circular-, single-cut and baguette diamonds, opening to reveal a mirror and two powder compartments, measuring approximately 126mm x 55mm x 10mm, signed Cartier, numbered, British assay and maker's marks.

Signed Cartier London, maker's mark J.C. British hallmarks for 18 carat gold, London 1937. Sapphires of medium strong saturation, well matched in colour, weighing approximately 6.00 - 7.00 carats. Diamonds estimated to weigh less than 2.00 carats, bright and lively. Mirror in very good condition. Signs of normal wear to the metal consistent with age and use. In very good condition. Gross weigh approximately 262 grams. Additional pouch with extensive damage.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe

Imagine a world of great wealth, glamour, politics, love, betrayal and loss…

Mary Evelyn Hungerford Crewe-Milnes, Duchess of Roxburghe, was born one hundred years ago at her family’s London home, Crewe House, a cream painted mansion in the heart of Mayfair.

A child of the roaring twenties and thirties, she grew up in the Jazz age amongst London’s glittering high society. Her godmother was Queen Mary, after whom she was named. Her beloved mother, the beautiful Peggy Primrose (daughter of British Prime Minister Earl of Rosebery and Rothschild heiress Hannah) was swept off her feet by her father, the much older and dashing Marquess of Crewe - a man of intellect and fashion, whose wealth nearly eclipsed that of his new wife’s family.

There was never a dull moment at Crewe House which was renowned for its sumptuous balls and lively dinner parties. It was on one of these occasions that Sir Winston Churchill fell in love with his beloved ‘Clemmie’, shortly thereafter requesting her hand in marriage. Mary’s mother was the ultimate hostess. In the most majestic of Rothschild traditions, she would appear atop the Crewe House staircase, swathed in a ten foot white velvet processional cloak studded with gemstones.

These wonderful events all came to a screeching halt with the tragic and unexpected loss of Mary’s eleven year old brother, ‘Jack’, Earl of Madeley. His loss, in 1922, cast a long shadow over the family for years to come.

In 1935, the hopes and dreams of the Crewe-Milnes family were resurrected with Mary’s fairy-tale wedding at Westminster Abbey. She married the dashing and very eligible Duke of Roxburghe. Bobo, as he was known, was the best shot in Scotland, and their union secured an extraordinary coming together of two noble families. Once more, a ball was thrown at Crewe House, attended by the King and Queen. Sadly, the impressive event was to be one of the last grand soirée of the era in London before the War.

Following her marriage, Mary moved to Floors Castle, becoming chatelaine of the imposing 80,000 acre Scottish border estate. Her position in haute British society was sealed, and in 1937 she was given the honour of carrying the Queen’s train on the occasion of George VI’s  coronation.

The Duke and Duchess spent many happy years together, travelling to India and Egypt and establishing their home at Floors Castle. Following the War, however, this period of bliss was not to last. After eighteen years of marriage without issue, the Duke shocked Mary by trying to evict her from Floors. Societal and family allegiances were torn and Mary barricaded herself in a wing of the castle for a period of six weeks. The Earl of Home, later Prime Minister Alex Douglas-Home brokered a settlement and the couple were divorced in 1953.

Following her divorce, Mary spent much of her life at 15 Hyde Park Gardens, in a large and elegantly furnished flat overlooking the park. Much of her time was devoted to charity work, and she became President of the National Union of Townswomen’s Guilds. She was also a member of the Royal Society of Literature and a devoted patron of the Royal Ballet. Following in her parents’ footsteps, she continued to entertain distinguished guests. With her mother’s death in 1967, she inherited West Horsley Place, a spacious 16th century mansion and estate near Leatherhead, Surrey. For decades, the historic house remained untouched. In 2014, Mary passed away and the mansion, much to his surprise, was inherited by her nephew Bamber Gascoigne.

In need of significant essential restoration, Bamber Gascoigne has resolved to undertake the work of securing West Horsley Place’s future, using funds raised from Sotheby’s sale of its contents to do so. He comments: “West Horsley Place played an integral part in my aunt Mary Roxburghe’s fascinating life. It was completely unexpected by me that I would be heir to her estate. She had expressed that, given the work required to restore the house, she expected I would sell it. But having spent many memorable times with my aunt here, and knowing how special the house was to her and her family, together with my wife I decided to take up the challenge of carrying out the essential work to the house to ensure that it can withstand what may lie ahead over the course of its future, and continue to stand as a monument of its remarkable past.”

The jewellery in this collection spans several decades, from the late 19^th century to the advent of the Second World War. The oldest pieces, like the ruby and diamond tiara and bracelet, lots 490 and 491, likely date to Mary’s grandmother, Hannah Rothschild (1851 – 1890). Receipts from jewellers such as Hennell, Charles J. Hill, Garrards and Carrington, dated from the late 1870s to the first decade of the 1900s, detail the jewellery expenditures of her husband, the 5^th Earl of Rosebery. Mary’s mother, Peggy Primrose (1881 – 1967), likely also received gifts from her father the Earl, as well as from her husband the Marquess of Crewe. As Ambassador to France from 1922-1928, the Marquess purchased jewels for his wife and daughter in Paris. Naturally, many of Mary’s jewels were likely commissioned by her own husband, or parents. With so many pieces by Cartier, we can only assume that she was an important client of the renowned jewellery house. The magnificent diamond tiara, lot 497, is a sublime example of Art Deco haute joaillerie. Its Cartier fitted case, like that which accompanies the natural pearl and diamond parure (lots 494-496), is emblazoned on the exterior with a gold coronet. The latter case is also embellished with Mary’s monogram. Following the Duke and Duchess’ divorce, much of her jewellery was sent to Hoare’s Bank on Fleet Street, in London, wrapped in newspapers from the year of their seperation. Of impeccable quality and provenance, it is with great honour that Sotheby’s presents these jewels for sale.