18 Karat Gold, Opal, Enamel and Diamond Brooch, Marcus & Co.

Set with one opal cabochon measuring approximately 14.9 by 13.5 by 7.6 mm, suspending an opal drop measuring approximately 12.1 by 10.2 mm, within scrollwork flourishes highlighted with green enamel, accented by old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.00 carat, gross weight approximately 12 dwts, signed Marcus & Co.; circa 1900.

In good condition with gentle surface wear to the stippled gold mounting. The enamel work to the surmount remains intact; minor losses to the enamel on the pendant. The translucent opals with moderate to strong play-of-color with green predominating followed by blue and orange. Moderate to significant crazing with some of the fissures breaking the surface. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, VS-SI clarity.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

The lots offered on these pages are quintessential Marcus & Co. designs. Like a painting in a museum, these jewels caste a magnificent overall impression, but upon greater observation the intricate details become more apparent. Showcasing the finest gemstones, Marcus & Co. designs are celebrated for their attention to detail, with each scrollwork flourish accentuating the shape of the stones, and each application of enamel heightening the color.

Formed in 1892, Marcus & Co. originated with Herman Marcus and his two sons, William and George. The firm’s participation in the first Exhibition of Arts and Crafts in 1897 further supports their avant garde approach to jewelry design, whose chief rival in the United States was Tiffany & Co. Originally from Germany, Herman Marcus’ training in Dresden is visible in his designs, which utilize stylistic trends from the Renaissance Revival and Art Nouveau movements, amongst others. With their Fabergé-like use of vibrant enamel and carved stones, as well as the introduction of plique-à-jour enamel to the American market, Marcus & Co. brought European style and craftsmanship to American patrons. With its periwinkle-hued sapphire florets cast in frames of shimmering plique-à-jour enamel, Lot 76 (which was purportedly exhibited at the 1897 Exhibition of Arts and Crafts in Boston) is a prime example of such a blending of tastes, trends and techniques.

When looking at the Marcus & Co. designs seen here and observing their meticulous attention to details, one must first take note of the fact that these techniques and skills are being used to highlight the utmost quality of gemstones. Green enamel and gold scrollwork is seen framing a substantial emerald cabochon and drop, while the use of enamel and diamonds juxtaposed with opals brings out their intense play of colors. Lot 75, although unsigned, is reminiscent of Marcus & Co. jewels, as the use of green enamel and brownish to yellowish diamonds showcase the unique color of the natural pearls they frame.  Upon becoming the president and treasurer of the firm in 1925, William Elder Marcus Jr. carried on his grandfather’s appreciation for gemstones by employing offices in Paris, London and Mumbai to source the finest examples of material. It was also at this time that William, Jr. enacted robust marketing plans, utilizing exquisite window displays and strategic press placement to maintain the Marcus & Co. reputation as a luxurious yet approachable brand. Although the firm no longer exists, today that reputation still stands. Marcus & Co. jewels are highly sought-after by collectors who appreciate the high level of gem connoisseurship, workmanship and aesthetic qualities showcased in their designs.

For additional information please see:

The Legacy of Herman Marcus and Marcus and Company by Janet Zapata, Magazine Antiques, August 2007, Volume 172, Issue 2, Page 68.

Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique by Stephen Harrison, Emmanuel Ducamp and Jeannine Falino, pages 250-255.