Platinum, Gold, Pearl and Diamond Choker, Black Starr & Frost

The delicate choker composed of 707 variously-shaped pearls ranging in size from approximately 4.9 to 3.6 mm, spaced by links set with old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 10.45 carats, length 12¾ inches, signed B.S.&F.; circa 1910.

In very good condition. The round to off-round pearls have a silvery white to creamy white body color with moderate rose, green and blue overtones, good luster and minor blemishing mainly in the form of pitting, wrinkling and peeling skins, not evident when worn. The diamonds are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The links have been rhodium-plated. Length of choker approximately 12 3/4 inches. 1 3/4 inches wide. Bears a nice heft and is comfortable upon wear. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155088730 stating that four randomly tested pearls are natural, saltwater.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155088730 stating that four randomly tested pearls are natural, saltwater.

Composed of luminous pearls stitched together in a delicate lace-like pattern, this choker exemplifies the exquisite, elegance of the Gilded Age.  The preternatural postures created by the corsets worn in the early 20th  century made the décolleté the focal point of women’s fashion.  In the evening, this called for layers upon layers of jewels to conceal yet draw attention to porcelain-skinned beauties from fine families.  Worn to the innumerable events dotting the social season, chokers such as the present lot would have been partnered with diamond rivièrès and ropes of pearls of varying lengths to accessorize gowns by Worth and Mainbocher, from frothy white confections to intricately patterned fabrics forming alluring silhouettes. The piece’s understated design, free from the garland-style flourishes seen on many contemporary examples, suggests it was likely paired with an elaborate devant de corsage teeming with floral and foliate motifs.

At the time this choker was fashioned, Black Starr & Frost was in the process of moving to their new home on Fifth Avenue. Founded in 1810, Black Starr & Frost created superb jewels not only for the American elite, but also for European royalty and aristocrats, thereby elevating the status of American jewelry manufacturing to rival the French behemoths of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and LaCloche.   Dating from a time when the Gilded Age was fast becoming the Art Deco period and corsets were giving way to liberating shift dresses, this choker illustrates how meticulous design and timeless materials are always in fashion.