Lot 80
  • 80

Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Cross Pendant-Necklace, Boucheron, France

Estimate
15,000 - 20,000 USD
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Description

  • Boucheron
  • gold, sapphire, diamond
Composed of numerous round, heart and trefoil-shaped cabochon sapphires, the pendant centering a round portrait diamond engraved 'IHS,' mounted in rose and yellow gold, necklace length 21½ inches, with partial maker's mark and obscured French assay mark; circa 1900.

Condition

In good condition with some gentle scratching to the gold, commensurate with age. The cabochon sapphires range from medium-deep to medium violetish blue, eye-clean to moderately included with a few stones exhibiting surface-reaching inclusions that are visible under close inspection. This piece is a rosary that has been turned into a necklace with a later added clasp. The center diamond inscription reading "IHS," which stands for "Iesu Hominem Salvatore," translated in English as "Jesus, Savior of Men." Partial maker's mark for Frédéric Boucheron on the link attached to the heart-shaped cabochon sapphire. Scratch number 16431 on the side of the cross. Length of pendant approximately 1 1/2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

The engraved diamond featured in this jewel is a rare example of the technical achievements in diamond cutting by the end of the 19th century.  In his treatise on French Jewelry of the 19th Century, Henri Vever noted that at the Paris Exhibition of 1900…"Boucheron’s display included brooches, rings, and other jewels centered with a diamond on which ornaments or flowers had been engraved."   The diamond lapidary responsible for these engraved diamond jewels was M. Bordinckx, who experimented and developed this skill over a period of twenty-five years with the support and encouragement of M. Boucheron. For other examples of Bordinckx’s work, see Boucheron by Giles Neret, pages 26-27 and 51.