Lot 450
  • 450

18 Karat Gold, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Onyx and Emerald Bangle-Bracelet, Cartier

Estimate
600,000 - 800,000 USD
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Description

  • gold, colored diamond, diamond, onyx, emerald
Of hinged design terminating in opposing tigers pavé-set with numerous round diamonds of yellow hue weighing approximately 15.00 carats, accented by round near colorless diamonds weighing approximately .45 carat, highlighted throughout with onyx stripes, completed by four pear-shaped emerald eyes, internal circumference 6 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 607986, with partial workshop and maker's marks.

Catalogue Note

In the menagerie of bejeweled animals created by Cartier, it is the felines that leapt into fashion history accessorizing the world’s best-dressed women.  From Daisy Fellowes and Princess Nina Aga Khan to Barbara Hutton, Cartier’s ‘big cat’ jewels were much admired by the social elite once the trend-setting Duchess of Windsor was seen sporting their sleek, distinctive silhouettes in the late 1940s and 1950s. 

 Conceived by Jeanne Toussaint, the enlightened director of Haute Joaillerie for Cartier during their most innovative years, the cat jewels were inspired by Toussaint’s passion for animals and her particular love of felines.  Affectionately nicknamed ‘la Panthère’ by Louis Cartier, the jewels resulted from her collaboration with Cartier designer Peter Lemarchand.  Together they frequented the Vincennes Zoo in Paris where they studied the cats in residence and captured their feminine, powerful charm in life-like jewels. 

 The influence of Jeanne Toussaint’s early naturalistic designs has been ever-present in Cartier’s jewels for more than seventy years, as the cats remain one of the jeweler’s most popular motifs around the world.     

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